Even the Trees are Confused

October 1st. The city heat gets turned on in 14 days and in years past we've been wishing it were already turned on by October 1st. This year has been so different. Skopje is actually seeming to have a Fall. Shocking because the common sentiment (aka joke) here is that Macedonia has only two seasons: winter and summer.

Just like last year our end of summer church potluck in August came a day after record high 100+ degree weather and in just 3 days it was already about 30 degrees cooler. But then, unlike last year, it got warm again. Sure, it never got over 100 again, but it's been consistently warm and humid.

So here we are at the beginning of October still (shockingly) wearing short sleeves despite the fact the first day of Fall is a week or so behind us. And all this has apparently completely confused some of the trees because they're blooming like it's Spring! Seriously, the site makes me laugh out loud, because it's just so, for lack of a better word, chudno! (Translation: strange.)

Poor trees. They're so confused. But I sure don't mind. It's kinda fun to see the beautiful blooms and bright green signs of life in contrast to all the orange and red signs of death (or winter hibernation).

To be honest, though, I'm not ready for the deep chill of winter to descend yet. Just not quite prepared to put away the capri's, flip-flops and the warmth of the sun on my face. =)

The Smell of Summer in Skopje

Freshly cut grass in the early mornings. Hamburgers sizzling on the barbeque. Damp towels drying in the sun. These are some fragrances that always signaled the arrival of summer for me growing up in the Sacramento Valley. Tea. That is the perfume that heralds the official arrival of summer for me here in Skopje.

Tea? I'm sorry, what? Did I really just say that?

When I'd ask the local baker or taxi driver about the силен мирис (strong aroma) filling the summer air the response was always, "Leepa. For tea."

Tea? I'm sorry, what?

Totally confused and convinced that I wasn't communicating well, I took a picture of the trees to show them. Several, actually. "Becky" at the local burek shop just looked at the images, smiled and said with a twinkle in her eye, "Yes, Karolinche. These are the Липа trees... we make tea from them."

Who knew! For some reason it never occurred to me that tea wasn't just made from herbs and such but from actual tree blossoms. She was totally bemused by my mystification but I was happy to learn something new about this special city and culture.

The Linden (aka Tilia) trees line the streets here in Skopje and their heady scent is reminiscent of gardenias, lilacs, lilies or other florist favorite. It envelopes you and its bouquet gets into clothes and hair and stays with you long after coming indoors.

Yes, summer has arrived here in Skopje. And next winter when the ice is thick on the ground and the sky heavy with snow, I'll only have to wrap my hands around a steamy mug of linden tea, close my eyes and breathe in deeply the lovely warm scent of summer and smile.

Среќен Осми Март! Happy Int'l Women's Day!

It's Осми Март and the annual celebration of women young, old, single and married. As a colleague mentioned earlier today, she likes this holiday better than Mother's day because it includes her too (she's single like me). It's funny, but according to Macedonia language rules (and thus cultural) you're not a жена (woman) until you're married... so even though I'm 40, I'm still referred to as a девојче (girl). So, I must confess that I'm liking this holiday as well because even us девојчиња get to celebrate it along with all the жени! ;)

The fun thing about days like today are that the men around town are more likely to be courteous and open doors and such. Infact, a colleague up in Kosovo was given a ride home by her language teachers husband in honor of the day. It's a distance she normally walks, even in the snow and ice, but not on this day! It's also typical that various parties or celebrations be held around town. It's International Women's Day (IWD)!

An interesting tidbit about this day is that it's not a strictly "American" or "Macedonian" holiday. It's actually celebrated all over the world. Infact, it's been around for 99 years! Here's some text from the IWD website: "International Women's Day (8 March) is a global day celebrating the economic, political and social achievements of women past, present and future. In some places like China, Russia, Vietnam and Bulgaria, IWD is a national holiday."

OK, so all that said, I must confess that I didn't even really celebrate it today! Yeah, shocker! But it was snowing all day and I just didn't want to go out. Yes, I do admit to having an irrational fear of falling on the slippery uneven sidewalks. I did get a couple of surprise phone calls, though, from some Macedonian friends. It'd been a while since we'd talked and so it was really nice to hear their voices and to make plans to see each other when I get back from Switzerland at the end of the month.

Anyways, to celebrate International Women's Day, I've posted this picture of some Springish daisies that I bought to cheer up my apartment a couple of weeks ago. And yes, that IS snow in the backdrop.... gotta love the contrast... =)

Happy International Women's Day!

Taxi Conversation #1: Spring is like a woman

This morning the air was filled with the sweet musky fragrance that only a Spring rain can bring... the rain had past and it was now sunny with a mix a puffy and ominous clouds filling the sky as I hopped into a cab to head to various destinations... After the usual conversational pleasantries I commented on how spring-like the day was.... it began with beautiful warm sun, then clouded over, becoming dark and ominous as a downpour was unleashed, only to clear up a little when a strong wind blew through....

His comment? "Ah, yes! Spring. Just like a woman, always changing her mood and completely unpredictable! Spring is the time of the woman!"

It took me a moment to grasp that he was really saying what I thought he was saying... and then busted out in laughter, to which he joined me, quite pleased that an American woman got his joke and enjoyed it. lol.

Snow! It just may be a White Christmas this year!

Last night I went to bed very late after a very full day exploring all around Skopje with friends, shopping, enjoying the lights, restaurants and cheeriness of the city bedecked in holiday enchantment. At the end of the day I Twittered that the only thing that could have made it even more picture-perfect was if there were snow. Unfortunately the weather forecast was only for rain.

So you can imagine my surprise (and JOY) to wake up this morning to a fresh blanketing of snow over the city, piling up on rooftops and clinging to trees! This is a site I've come to really look forward to just after the New Year... I was hooked three years ago when it snowed right on New Years Day. Then last year it was January 2nd. This years New Year dusting happened a little later, but JUST IN TIME to fulfil a childhood dream of a "White Christmas." Can you hear my girlish squeal of delight???

White Christmas??? Yes, I did say Christmas. That's because Macedonia celebrates the holiday according to the Julian calendar, so January 7th is the day. You might find it interesting that "Santa", Christmas trees and gift-giving happen for New Years. I've recently learned that this transition happened during communism where New Years, being smack in the middle of the "Catholic" Christmas and the "Orthodox" Christmas, seemed the right compromise. The happy by-product of this is that Christmas is just about Jesus' birth, which is pretty cool.

Christmas in Macedonia is celebrated a bit differently as well. I've shared some of the celebrations and traditions in previous years' blogs and so will try to take a different perspective this year. The festivities start tonight with the Kolede bonfires, which have their roots in old Slavic folk religion, but like the Christmas tree, have taken on new meaning over the years ("Christ's light coming into a dark world."). Still, though, the locals tell me they go just for the fire, dancing, food, rakija and visiting with friends and neighbors. With the new layer of snow today, it should make the fires a bit more inviting. :) Anyways, as the tradition unfolds this year I will try to share some stories and pictures along the way.

Until next time, here's a pic of the pile of fuzzy snowflakes that I awoke to this morning....

Happy September

This is a happy picture: the balloons swirling everywhere in various colors, the wide-open mouth of surprise, delighted flapping arms and wind-tossed hair. I see so much of myself in this picture right now.... but it's more like, "Look at all those things I've got in the air with arms flapping trying to catch hold of them!" Happy September!

Well, OK, it's not so bleak as that. ;) Though it is a good representation of the mix of fun and stress that has been my life for the last three months. The "blog-balloon" was just one of the "delights" that I let fly away in favor of the many other things that have taken priority.

The work balloons: When I got back from the US I had just over two weeks to not only catch up on 2 months of bookkeeping and to prepare for fiscal year-end and the splitting up of the books into two autonomous sets... I had to pack up and move the office. With the move to a new place comes all the little details that aren't so big in themselves, but simply suck your time away like a quickly deflating balloon.

Happy September, though, in that I'm caught up, moved, set-up (mostly), completed with the bookkeeping gymnastics and can finally hunker down and get back to "normal" and re-frying some beans (aka. bookkeeping).

There have been many other balloons swirling around in my life these past few months, some stressful, some sad, but also some joyful and pure delight. Now that some of the extra-swirly balloons from summer have been let go (aka. finished tasks/responsibilities), the picture for me is becoming once more a happy one instead of a stressful one. That is the mix that I see in that picture above entitled, "Среќен Септембри!" (Happy September!)

*******

And just in case I haven't already hacked this analogy to death, there is one more that the picture evokes, and it's related to the weather and seasons:

With September came the turning of leaves, the chilly breezes while the hint of summer heat inexplicably remains in the air, the sweet smell of roasting peppers and the SHOCK of the weather changing from Summer to Fall in a DAY (one Saturday afternoon it was 100+, by that evening it was 50 and hasn't really gotten above 80 since)....

The days of summer floating away like those colorful balloons..... Happy September!

OK enough with with analogies! lol. Frankly, I'm glad it's September with the busyness of summer behind me and the cool and more "normal" days of Fall ahead of me. =)

I'd Rather be Shoveling Snow

As I'm huddled in the new office with no air-conditioning, lamenting the Skopje summer heat (and the sweat that comes with it), I can't help but dream of March in Wyoming and being snowed in for two days by "the blizzard of the season." [The picture below was taken at 5am after the snow had been blowing strongly and horizontally for 14 hours already!]

Oh it was so nice! Nestled in a warm log house with my drukarki (closest friends), cooking chili and cornbread, figuring out a puzzle, swooning over Colin Firth in Pride and Prejudice and laughing hysterically at Nacho Libre taking off on his scooter. We also went out to play in the snow... yes, in the blizzard... we can only imagine the neighbors looking at us and collectively shaking their heads at our stupidity and muttering, "city folk."

Being snowed in was not without it's challenges, though. The septic system backed up, but we were able to fix it by finding... er... the poor little mice family that had given their lives to clog it up in the first place. Also, a day after the storm while rushing outside to catch the snowplow before it bypassed our driveway... Whoop! Slip! Clunk! My foot slipped on the steps and Smack! went my back onto the wooden planks. I was up in moments, though, because if we didn't catch him to plow our driveway we'd be locked in for even longer. The driver kindly plowed our driveway and my back turned out to be no worse for the wear. =)
Ah! Good times were those spent with my friends on that road trip to Wyoming.

Sigh... the landlord just stopped by and snapped me back from my daydreaming of cooler days. The phone guys are here to install our landline. It's great to have the landline, but honestly, I'd rather be shoveling snow right now. =)

Leaping into Cold Waters for Luck

The men, about a hundred or so, are gathered in the swim trunks at the base of the Old Stone Bridge and ready to jump in an instant into the swift and frigid Vardar river to retrieve some luck and blessing for the coming year. This is Epiphany Day in Macedonia, an Orthodox holiday to celebrate the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist and to unite with him in it.

Thousands of spectators bracing against the cold January afternoon gather along the "Kej" (river path) to witness the spectacle. The Pontiff HH Stefan, the head of the Macedonian Orthodox Church, held a special service from the bridge and spoke a blessing over the river and the people with a cross. Then the cross is thrown into the current and the contestants make their leap. It's believed the one who retrieves the cross will have good health, happiness and luck in the coming year. According to the Macedonian Information Agency, this years winner also received a TV, electric range and fridge among other things.

Soon after this the people who had been watching will then make their way down to the waters edge to dip their hands, to sip and collect some in containers to bring home. It's believed the water is blessed now from the ceremony and so touching, sipping and bringing it home will bring that blessing into their lives and home.

I wasn't able to go today (these pics are from last year), but I am very glad for all those who did attend that the snow and ice has finally melted and the sun was shining brilliantly today, perhaps making things just a bit warmer. =)

On Two Feet

Today was my first day back in the field office since getting sick. Though I love my job working to support the Balkan field as their bookkeeper, I can honestly say that today I was the most excited I've ever been about heading to the office... simply because I was able to get out of the apartment!

One thing that teaches me is that I'm someone who needs to go to work rather than just work from home. On the other hand, should the need present itself it's nice to know that my little portable external hard drive works well and enables me to work away from the office. I was able to do 95% of the bookkeeping while at home sick and just finished up the remaining 5% today. That's a good thing considering I'm planning on doing the field books while in the US.

Speaking of home assignment, there are a lot of things I need to get done before heading back. One of the big things will be the preparation for the team leaders of the financials they'll need for budget planning as well as field structure planning (in light of the major structural change that was made this past year). Additionally, it's a period of tough financial times for all right now and I believe that may weigh heavily during the budgeting process. Please do be in prayer as we work through this process. We want to be good stewards with what we've been given.

Back to today, it was truly wonderful to be outside and not stuck in my apartment. The weather has warmed up to the upper thirties and all the thick ice that had been coating the sidewalks has melted. It's such a relief! Tonight we also had a team get together, enjoying the wonderful culinary prowess of one colleage while sharing some laughter as well as well as meaningful field-related conversation and planning. It's so amazing to work with such a fine group of people who over the years have also become dear friends.

End note: The thing about this latest asthma struggle I've had is that it's served as a very real reminder of how I am completely dependant upon God for even the simple act of breathing. For someone who is prone to want to forge out on her own and do things in her own strength, it's a good reminder. This life I have, that I'm living, is a very precious gift and I want to live each day to honor the One who has given it to me. On another note, I want to express how grateful I am for those who have been praying for me or even sent encouraging notes during this time. Thank you so much.... I'm back on two feet. =)

Gas and "Refried Beans"

We just heard from colleagues in Sarajevo that the gas is once again flowing, their heat is on and they're beginning to thaw out. =) Thanks for praying, but please do keep in mind those who are struggling this winter.

That was the "gas" and now here's some "Refried Beans" aka... bookkeeping notes. =)

I've been continuing to work from home as I recover from whatever it is that I have, waiting for the other antibiotics to do their magic... yet this cough persists... I'm sure my neighbors are tired of hearing it as I am in hacking it. My muscles around my rib cage are so sore and my stomach feels like I've done several hundred sit-ups... hack, cough, crunch. The good news is that my peak flow meter (a way to measure my lung/breathing status) has shown steady improvement. Still, I'm sick of being sick and actually look forward to getting back to the office.


There is one benefit, though, to me working from home (besides my bed and fuzzy slippers). I suppose you could call it a sort of dry-run for doing the books while on home assignment (beginning in March). In the past when we've attempted to do the books from afar (meaning when the FD was traveling or I was on HA) it just didn't work. However, with the new field structure, I've been working from afar with the TL's now for eight-months worth of bookkeeping. And the process has only improved and been further streamlined. So much so I've been able to do the books completely from home this month (thanks to a portable external backup that contains everything I need and this wonderful laptop thanks to COTF). In fact, if things continue to go well, I'll be able to close in the next couple of days. :::happy dance:::

All this encourages me that the challenges we've had in the past with trying to do the books from afar will not present themselves and gives me a bit of ease in readying for home assignment. Speaking of readying for home assignment, I would appreciate your prayer as there is lots to accomplish between now and March. Additionally, I still don't know where I will be staying either, so would really appreciate your prayers for that too. Thank you!

Deep Freeze....

Last night's low in Sarajevo was 5 degrees Fahrenheit... the high was only 27F. Now imagine living in those cold conditions without heat. Such has been the situation for our colleagues in Bosnia since Tuesday. They and millions of others throughout the Balkans have been adversely affected by the natural gas dispute between Russia and Ukraine. Here in Macedonia, we've had some reserves and do have heat, however factory production has been cut by 50% and now the face a possible "forced vacation".

While it looks like the dispute will finally be resolved and the gas mains reopened, CNN reports that it can be up to 10 hours before people will again be able to feel the heat and begin to thaw out. In the meantime, please do pray for those who have been struggling without heat, my heart goes especially to the young, the elderly, the homeless, and those living in shanty towns. Furthermore, Europe-wide this winter has been the coldest in years and the forecast is for more of the same. Please be praying. Thank you!

The Calf Yells "Le Le!" Kolede!

It's 6:45AM on Christmas Eve, January 6, 2009, and I am awakened by the first batch of children making their way through my neighborhood singing the Kolede Song. This year there is lots of icy snow on the ground and the children are bundled up like Ralfie's little brother.

Oops, there goes the doorbell. Hmm... it seems this group of children has added a drum to give the song a beat lively beat. lol. I must go answer the door and hand out this years treat: mandarins and chestnuts this year. =)

Here's a VERY rough translation of the song:

One icey Kolede

a tree limb fell on grandpa

grandpa was in agony.

Grandma incubates [sits on] 4 goose eggs.

Crazy happenings, Kolede!

Today is Kolede
tomorrow is Christmas

We're going to kill a calf
but the calf yells, "lele!"

I won't kill the calf
I'll give you veggies

and we'll make pita
for all of us to eat. Kolede!

It still gets me that the children are bundled up and out the door so early in the morning. My friend on the other side of town had them ringing her doorbell at 5AM this year. When my language teacher first told me about this I'd assumed that the children would come in the early evening like in the US for Halloween. So you an imagine my shock my first year here when my doorbell rang and children were singing this Grandma-got-run-over-by-a-reindeer-ish song at 6:30AM! It took me 7 years, but I was awake, dressed and ready for them this year! (See last years post for more on Christmas Eve in Macedonia.)

I don't know everything... How shocking!

They stuck a needle in me and drew blood! That was something I'd successfully avoided for the 6+ years that I've been here in the Balkans. Unfortunately that all came to an end today with a trip to the doctor after having a persistent cough for over a week now.

I've not had a cold, flu, stuffy nose, temperature, or other such malady so I'd just assumed it was my asthma acting up because of the cold weather. Usually, though, my inhalers clear the problem, and after a week it was clear that something else must have been going on. The results of the blood test showed that I either had a tumor or a bacterial infection. My doctor concluded it was the latter(!!) and prescribed an antibiotic.

This is where the lesson comes in for me. You see, I've lived with asthma for just about 30 years now and so I am very familiar with what the triggers are (environmental, dietary, etc), know to keep calm when having an attack, to let my inhalers do their job, and know what my lungs feel like when it's serious and I need to see a doctor.

The problem is that over time I've gotten used to living with such a high level of discomfort and have often simply ridden it out (sometimes even acute asthma attacks) when I should have gone to the doctor. Such is the case this time. I should have seen a doctor last week when the cough first hit and made my voice sound like a frog. The doctor chastised me for this, though she was very kind about it, and made me promise to come see her immediately should something like this happen again. Yes ma'am. Lesson learned: I don't know everything I thought I did.

On another note, I must say that I am SOOOO grateful for Remedika, which is a hospital here in Skopje. This is the same place I'd gone for the stitches in my foot two February's ago. The staff there are so nice and helpful. AND, with regards to sterility and cleanliness they are tops! For instance, today when going to tape the cotton ball over the puncture point the nurse accidentally dropped the tape on the ground. It immediately went in the trash bin and she pulled out a brand new one! Again, I am so thankful that such a place exists here in the event that one does need medical attention... and I promise that next time I won't wait so long to see a doctor.

Quote of the Snowy Day

"Tato! Tato!" cried the young boy sitting on a sled in the snow being towed by his father. "Prvo levo," the boy called and then continued with the mixture of excitement and wonder that only fresh falling snow can bring. "i [ee] sega... Pravo! Pravo! Pravo!"

He then gripped the sides of his sled in great anticipation and complete faith and trust in his father that not only would he pull him fast and with a sense of adventure, but that he'd also keep him safe. "Dobro, srtse," says the father dotingly as he begins to pull his son first left and then straight, straight, straight on the powdery path in the city park. Smiles all around.

While this interaction was going on between one father and son, another father was helping his son to build a snowman on his sled. In fact, there were several families out adventuring in the snow with snowball fights and sledding down hills. Witnessing such special moments between parents and children always brings a smile to my face and warms my heart. May the memories made today by these families last a lifetime and may there be many many more such special moments in their lives in the future. =)

I was so inspired that later while I was killing some time in a cafe with a coffee I had some fun doodling the event.

Snowflakes and Fireflies

I opened my eyes later than usual on Saturday morning, but when I got up and looked out the window I couldn't believe my eyes! The first snow had come! Who knew?? Just the night before it was a balmy 60-ish evening with a wicked-mean wind. While it didn't blow in my windows like I thought it might it must have been what carried in this first winter dusting. :)

Snowflakes and fireflies are two things that simply enchant me, so I was pretty excited about this fluffy surprise greeting my sleepy eyes. There's just something about the stillness and quiet that comes over the city as it is delicately blanketed in white. Smile.

Just today a taxi driver told me that Macedonia has two seasons: Summer and Fall. They used to say, "Summer and Winter," but with the warmer than normal winters over the past few years that's changing. Well, I certainly hope that this wonderful dusting is just a hint at what is yet to come. Ajde, sing with me... "I'm dreaming of a white Christmas...."

Notes from a Sunday

Today was a day off of sorts for me. Basically I'd had the week off from singing on worship team. I did, however, do the clicker this morning for the overhead slides and I must say "hats off!" to all those that do this each Sunday. It's hard to sing and click at the same time. Kinda like walking, chewing gum, patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same time--especially on a Mac because if you click just a second too long the "One Note" advances to the end and then there's the quick clicking forward to get back onto the right slide. Then there was the one point where the slide wouldn't advance at all! Have I mentioned recently that I'm not a Mac-fan? ;) The wonderful thing, though, is the graciousness of the congregation. :) If they knew the song they kept singing with boldness and those who didn't waited patiently for me to get the Mac to respond.

After service a couple gal colleages and I went to the city center for lunch, one was down visiting from Kosovo and so it was nice to catch up with her. We ended up eating at a fun place on the center square called "Dal Fufu." Yes, that really is it's name. Great pizza, pasta, meat and potatoes dishes. :) Afterwards we went to a new coffee place that is the closest thing we have to a Starbuck's... my carmel macchiato was amazing. They even had Nutter Butters, Oreo cookies and Snapple... though very expensive. Still, not something we can normally find here. Later we found our way to my apartment and chatted some more before parting ways as the waning sunlight brought the day to a close.

Skopje, by the way, has some of the most spectacular sunsets that I have ever seen in my life. Today's was no exception. The only odd thing was that it was happening at 4pm! But that's early compared to a month from now when it'll be dark by 3:15. Anyways, the picture up top is from this evening that was especially beautiful.

It's now well into dusk and a sliver moon is beginning to set above Mt. Vodno. An end to another lovely day here in the Balkans.

An Autumn Day in Skopje

Saturday is usually my day to cook, clean and do laundry, but I got a bit distracted on the way to the market because it was simply a gorgeous day. It seems most of the city got sidetracked as well as the walking street and surrounding restaurants and cafes were literally teaming with people enjoying the warm "Gypsy Summer" day. I found myself enchanted by the activity:

• the light cool breese sending colored leaves descending towards the cobblestone
• fathers carrying their young children on thier shoulders
• friends walking arm-in-arm and laughing about some inside joke
• the young couple stealing a kiss underneath a majestic tree colored in greens, yellows and oranges
• a group of young adults carrying signs offering "Free Hugs" to passersby
• the strains of the theme song from "The Last of the Mohicans" giving melody to days activity by men in native dress
• the venders selling fresh roasted chestnuts, mini-krofni (aka "American" donuts) sprinkled with powdered sugar and chocolate surrip, or hand-crafted jewelry, belts, or tourist items
• a little girls surprise when her balloon pops and her mothers reassurance that she'd get her another one
• the news crew setting up to interview the "Free Hug" kids and to take video of the general activity of the day

What a beautiful day is was here in the city.

Ajvar: Community Pepper Peeling

Oui! How is it that every muscle in my body hurts?! It's amazing how sore you get while making Ajvar.... between hunching over and peeling, peeling, peeling and four-hours of stirring, stirring, stirring it's no wonder! Our second day making the local specialty went really well and was full of fun. Here's a picture diary of our day which began with:

Roasting peppers until they're black and easy to peel... this time with the stems on in order to do a comparison of methods used by locals... more to come on the verdict in another blog...
Beginning the pepper-peeling process....

Prepare shish-kabob's for lunch

Quickly move everything inside because the previously sunny day disappeared in a torrent of rain!... and peel more peppers

Roast eggplant (aka "black tomatoes")

Pause for lunch under the once-again clear skies.... the carrots and cherry tomatoes in the salad were fresh from the garden!

Continue to peel peppers and now eggplant (eggplant is by far the hardest to peel btw)...

Begin to grind the peppers and eggplant... don't you just love the innovation of using a drill vs. hand-cranking!?! Zip zip! It went so fast!

Continue peeling and grinding while beginning to stir the mix on the stove... adding 1 liter (!) of oil to start...


Chop fresh parsley from the garden and garlic for the ajvar beginning to boil on the stove..

Short break for early blackberry birthday pie for Pattie and myself [thank you!!].... while still peeling!

More peeling!

Finished the peeling and now finishing up the grinding!!

Now the brewing begins! We needed to cook this mixture until it's 1/2 this size!

That means... four HOURS of stirring... and stirring... and stirring..... Once the mixture had cooked down, thickened and darkened, we brought it all upstairs to begin spooning into freshly sanitized, prepared jars...

It's hard to believe that 75 kilos of peppers and 20 of eggplant boiled down to 20 small jars and 5 large jars of Ivar! (Or as my brother and nephews teasingly pronounced... Ajuh-bep... the Englishification of the Cyrillic for Aye-var... Ајвар)

If you're counting jars in this picture you'll notice there's only 4 large jars... that's because we ate one while it was warm! It's so yummy to slather warm Ivar on bread and top it with some sirinje (a creamy feta-type cheese). MmmmMmmm...

By far, the best thing about making Ajvar, though, are the hours of fellowship, laughs, conversation and community-building among participants enjoying each other, the work and the day. :) Besides making Ajvar with colleagues, I've twice had the priviledge of making Ajvar with a Macedonian family from church. I loved sitting at the stove with the dad and chatting while monitoring the peppers process and adding more when others were done... or the laughter and conversation that happened with everyone around the pepper-peeling on a crisp autumn day. Making ajvar is one of those very special community activities and something I look forward to now each year.

Though I could go another year before I peel another pepper! lol ;)