If You Build it, Rain Will Come

This Autumn has been an especially wet one here in Skopje and my taxi-driver this morning informed me as to why that is. The conversation went something like this:

"How do you like all this rain? We are like London now."

"Oh, it's wonderful. I actually enjoy it very much." [Yes, I did say that and actually mean it!]

"Well, it's because of the two new lakes that we have all this rain."

"Excuse me?"

"Yes! We've had Lake Matka for many years, but now they built two new lakes on the Treska River."

Thinking to myself: I've seen at least one of them and it's not much more than a glorified puddle. And the Treska isn't big like the American River... or the Sacramento... For my Folsom Lake friends: Lake Matka is a tad bit bigger than one of the lakes in Hidden Lakes Estates... ie: a stone-throw-and-a-half across and maybe a quarter mile long.


But I responded, "Really? Honestly, I have a hard time buying that. There's more rain all over, not just in Skopje."

To which he replied with authority, "Oh yes, but it's true! My father is a meteorologist and he did a study on this and he told me this is why we are having more rain. Before 5, 6 years we had maybe 175 days of rain and now we have about 200, but with the new lakes we will have more like 260 days of rain this year!"

"Oh, so that's why they built the lakes?"

"Yes!"

So there you go! "If you build it, Rain will come!" =)

Even the Trees are Confused

October 1st. The city heat gets turned on in 14 days and in years past we've been wishing it were already turned on by October 1st. This year has been so different. Skopje is actually seeming to have a Fall. Shocking because the common sentiment (aka joke) here is that Macedonia has only two seasons: winter and summer.

Just like last year our end of summer church potluck in August came a day after record high 100+ degree weather and in just 3 days it was already about 30 degrees cooler. But then, unlike last year, it got warm again. Sure, it never got over 100 again, but it's been consistently warm and humid.

So here we are at the beginning of October still (shockingly) wearing short sleeves despite the fact the first day of Fall is a week or so behind us. And all this has apparently completely confused some of the trees because they're blooming like it's Spring! Seriously, the site makes me laugh out loud, because it's just so, for lack of a better word, chudno! (Translation: strange.)

Poor trees. They're so confused. But I sure don't mind. It's kinda fun to see the beautiful blooms and bright green signs of life in contrast to all the orange and red signs of death (or winter hibernation).

To be honest, though, I'm not ready for the deep chill of winter to descend yet. Just not quite prepared to put away the capri's, flip-flops and the warmth of the sun on my face. =)

April Fool's Day Macedonian Style!

This morning some ladies and I met for breakfast at a favorite restaurant in the mall and periodically would see unusually dressed people and munchkins walking by outside. At first I didn't think anything of the two ladies that were dressed in the white and blue Mother Theresa style habits (you see them occasionally as this is where she was born)... but then a guy with Bozo hair passed by.... then a class full of little munchkins dressed up in everything from a princess to a cowboy with wands and guns waving.

Then it hit me.... Aha! That's right! It's April 1st and "Maskinball" here in Macedonia.

On my way back from breakfast this morning I stopped into my local burek place just to say "hi" and just in time for the owners daughter to arrive in her costume. So after taking a picture of mom and daughter, the little girl persuaded me to put on her mask and hat for a photo of my own!

Ha ha... I stopped writing for a moment because I heard a large group of teenagers passing by on my street.... they were gathering together to line up in formation so that they would arrive at school in "style"... several were dressed up as professionals in suits, others as flight attendants, a soldier, a "tourist" wearing a huge sombrero, a couple flamenco dancers, a beach bum, lady bug, Tweedle Dee and so many others.... I wish my batteries hadn't chosen this moment to die because it would have been a pretty funny picture to share!

Welcome to just another interesting day here in the Balkans! =)

Среќен Осми Март! Happy Int'l Women's Day!

It's Осми Март and the annual celebration of women young, old, single and married. As a colleague mentioned earlier today, she likes this holiday better than Mother's day because it includes her too (she's single like me). It's funny, but according to Macedonia language rules (and thus cultural) you're not a жена (woman) until you're married... so even though I'm 40, I'm still referred to as a девојче (girl). So, I must confess that I'm liking this holiday as well because even us девојчиња get to celebrate it along with all the жени! ;)

The fun thing about days like today are that the men around town are more likely to be courteous and open doors and such. Infact, a colleague up in Kosovo was given a ride home by her language teachers husband in honor of the day. It's a distance she normally walks, even in the snow and ice, but not on this day! It's also typical that various parties or celebrations be held around town. It's International Women's Day (IWD)!

An interesting tidbit about this day is that it's not a strictly "American" or "Macedonian" holiday. It's actually celebrated all over the world. Infact, it's been around for 99 years! Here's some text from the IWD website: "International Women's Day (8 March) is a global day celebrating the economic, political and social achievements of women past, present and future. In some places like China, Russia, Vietnam and Bulgaria, IWD is a national holiday."

OK, so all that said, I must confess that I didn't even really celebrate it today! Yeah, shocker! But it was snowing all day and I just didn't want to go out. Yes, I do admit to having an irrational fear of falling on the slippery uneven sidewalks. I did get a couple of surprise phone calls, though, from some Macedonian friends. It'd been a while since we'd talked and so it was really nice to hear their voices and to make plans to see each other when I get back from Switzerland at the end of the month.

Anyways, to celebrate International Women's Day, I've posted this picture of some Springish daisies that I bought to cheer up my apartment a couple of weeks ago. And yes, that IS snow in the backdrop.... gotta love the contrast... =)

Happy International Women's Day!

Taxi Conversation #1: Spring is like a woman

This morning the air was filled with the sweet musky fragrance that only a Spring rain can bring... the rain had past and it was now sunny with a mix a puffy and ominous clouds filling the sky as I hopped into a cab to head to various destinations... After the usual conversational pleasantries I commented on how spring-like the day was.... it began with beautiful warm sun, then clouded over, becoming dark and ominous as a downpour was unleashed, only to clear up a little when a strong wind blew through....

His comment? "Ah, yes! Spring. Just like a woman, always changing her mood and completely unpredictable! Spring is the time of the woman!"

It took me a moment to grasp that he was really saying what I thought he was saying... and then busted out in laughter, to which he joined me, quite pleased that an American woman got his joke and enjoyed it. lol.

Epiphany

"I live in the Balkans." Sometimes that realization makes me catch my breath.... or pinch myself. Standing on the bank of the Vardar River with a few thousand of my neighbors to watch a cross be thrown into the river on a chilled January day known as "Epiphany" I was again caught up in the wonder of it all.

This California girl who took high school Spanish with Mr. Marelich, but never really applied it, was now bundled up listening to the priest bless the river in Macedonian... and actually understanding more than a fair bit. Most of my days are spent communicating in a strange mix I refer to as Makaenglish: Macedonian in stores, taxis, on the street, with friends and English just as often.

Then there's the cultural learning... somehow after living here for several years I've learned to live with the constant state of cultural stress and ambiguity, knowing that there will always be things, cultural subtleties, that I won't understand. To be honest, there are some days that the stress really wears on me and I'm tempted to pack up and go back to the familiar of "home" in the US...

But then there are conversations over turkish coffee, shared meals, the human connections that happen in the sharing of lives, hopes, dreams, joys, fears..... and days like that cold one two weeks ago where I find myself simply soaking it all in: the people, the language, the culture, the.... the unfamiliarity of this place where East and West converge that somehow has become so familiar in my heart. My personal epiphany I suppose you could say. Yes, I love the people here, the place, the culture.

I live in the Balkans.

40 Years of "Adventure"

In keeping with my fascination of city graffiti/street art, my celebration of 40 years AND the looking forward to the next 40, this picture seemed an appropriate and timely one to share. It showed up on the wall of an abandoned building near the city center this past summer and originally said, "40 years of global lies." Now that's a social commentary that I won't even touch... instead, I've "photo-shopped" it with the sentiment that I find much more preferable and fitting to a wrap up of the previous decade(s) and forging forward into the adventure that lies ahead! =) Bring on the next adventurous 40!!

Happy New Year!

2010. Wow! When I was a teenager I'd wonder what the year 2000 would be like as I listened to Prince's "1999." But 2010? It was so hard to imagine... first, because I'd be 40... yes, I did that F-O-R-T-Y. Funny, though, I'm sitting here on warm and sunny New Years Day 2010 in Skopje and can't help but feel the best years are ahead. Honestly, it kinda boggles my mind what I've seen in the last 40 years.... and I can only imagine what amazing things are ahead. One thing is for sure, though, I'm happily taking each day as they come. So enjoy last night with me as you peruse some of the photos from the celebration in the Плоштад (Skopje's center square).

Brass Band

This statue piece was one of my absolute favorites in Skopje.... always sure to inspire a joyful smile on my face! That is until one by one each piece dissappeared! It was so sad to see the lone trumpetman playing without his buddies... little old ladies would pass by and shake their head and tsk at the shame of the loss.... then just a few months later all that was left was the concrete slab. =(

I think the one I missed the most was the guy in front with the big puffy cheaks blowing with all his might... kind of reminded me of the guy in the picture below from a local concert of the Philharmonic orchestra (guest musicians pictured):

Well, in the past few months several new statues have been appearing all over Skopje (pics and blogs to come).... and so imagine my joy to see that they replaced my favorite statue with the same basic "Brass Band." It's definitely not exactly the same, but that's OK, because like an old friend it's good to see it and it always brings a smile to my face when I pass by. =)

Poppin' for Shampoo & Toast

Pop! Bang! The sound of sporadic popping of balloons and a crowd filled Ramstore's entry way this morning. There was a lot of popping going on, but it'd never occurred to me that it was on purpose. :)

It's Saturday and normally the day for different promotions: from chocolate and cheese to vita-drink mixes and dishwashing soap. Normally, I just walk on by, but today there was an announcement over the store speakers that if you spent over a certain amount of money you could enter a contest by bringing your receipt to the main entrance. Ah, I thought, the balloons... but as I didn't understand everything being said I'd no clue as to what the contest was and was curious to find out.

I thought perhaps we'd have to fill out a form and submit it for a drawing or something. Nope, this was infinitely better: you get to chose an orange, green or white balloon. Then a girl marks your receipt and then grabs the balloon and a pin and POP! The balloon explodes and a folded piece of paper flies out (or across the room, or hits someone in the head) that tells you what you've won! Ha ha! What fun!... though I'd no idea how the gals didn't jump like I did every time they skewered a balloon. ;)

For my balloon-poppin fun I won some shampoo, soap and a coupon for a free toast at Twiggy's. =)

****

For those who are thinking, "Gee, she won a piece of toasted bread... yipee...," it's actually much much better than that. Here in Macedonia "тост" is actually more like a grilled cheese sandwich with lunch meat ham and optional mushrooms, ketchup, mayonnaise and, of course, oregano.

Forgiveness Day

Yesterday was Forgiveness Day here in Macedonia. It's the Sunday immediately before the beginning of Great Lent in the Orthodox church (the traditional fast from dairy and such until Easter). In preparation for the Lenten fast, the faithful are encouraged to seek forgiveness from those they have wronged as well as to forgive those who've wronged them. Church services will center on Jesus' teachings on forgiveness and fasting as found in Matt 6:14-18.

For a really good explanation of this day and the intent and meaning behind it, I highly recommend following this link to an article by Protopresbyter Alexander Schmemann. Here's an excerpt:

"Now, forgiveness stands at the very center of Christian faith and of Christian life because Christianity itself is, above all, the religion of forgiveness. God forgives us, and His forgiveness is in Christ, His Son, Whom He sends to us, so that by sharing in His humanity we may share in His love and be truly reconciled with God. Indeed, Christianity has no other content but love. And it is primarily the renewal of that love, a return to it, a growth in it, that we seek in Great Lent, in fasting and prayer, in the entire spirit and the entire effort of that season. Thus, truly forgiveness is both the beginning of, and the proper condition for the Lenten season."

This is also the time of Carnival celebrations and the best known in Macedonia are held in Strumica. Christopher Deliso, who is a travel writer and lives in Macedonia, wrote an interesting Lonely Planet article about those celebrations back in 2006, and again I highly recommend reading it for some insight into this cultural event and its origins. Here's an excerpt.

"The Strumica Carnival... [also] has pagan origins and, as can be attested to by some of the more titillating costumes, has not entirely lost its ancient associations with virility, fertility and ruddy bucolic health.

The five-day carnival coincides with the beginning of Orthodox Lent...It was originally associated with Trimeri, a three-day period of Christian fasting for engaged girls. Such piety has long gone out the window, but the tradition partially lives on: Costumed processions visit the homes of engaged women, where each must guess which ofthe masked men is hers..."

Now you may be wondering why I'm talking about Lent a week after everyone else started talking about it. Well, this is because Easter in Macedonia is celebrated according to the Julian calendar... that means that this year Orthodox Easter will be on April 19th, which is one week later than in "the West" on April 12th, which is according to the Gregorian calendar. Confused? Well, here's a link for those wanting to learn more about the Julian vs Gregorian calendar history.

The "Day of Forgiveness" as well as the many comments, posts and Facebook statuses regarding the season of Lent have got me doing some deeper ponderings of faith. If you're interested in these personal ponderings, I will be posting them soon to my new blog: TrstngHm. In the meantime, I hope you enjoyed reading and learning some more about life and culture here in the Balkans. =)

Leaping into Cold Waters for Luck

The men, about a hundred or so, are gathered in the swim trunks at the base of the Old Stone Bridge and ready to jump in an instant into the swift and frigid Vardar river to retrieve some luck and blessing for the coming year. This is Epiphany Day in Macedonia, an Orthodox holiday to celebrate the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist and to unite with him in it.

Thousands of spectators bracing against the cold January afternoon gather along the "Kej" (river path) to witness the spectacle. The Pontiff HH Stefan, the head of the Macedonian Orthodox Church, held a special service from the bridge and spoke a blessing over the river and the people with a cross. Then the cross is thrown into the current and the contestants make their leap. It's believed the one who retrieves the cross will have good health, happiness and luck in the coming year. According to the Macedonian Information Agency, this years winner also received a TV, electric range and fridge among other things.

Soon after this the people who had been watching will then make their way down to the waters edge to dip their hands, to sip and collect some in containers to bring home. It's believed the water is blessed now from the ceremony and so touching, sipping and bringing it home will bring that blessing into their lives and home.

I wasn't able to go today (these pics are from last year), but I am very glad for all those who did attend that the snow and ice has finally melted and the sun was shining brilliantly today, perhaps making things just a bit warmer. =)

Cultural Clues for Living in the Balkans

As I was hurrying to blow-dry my hair before heading down to the store just to buy some eggs (so as not to shock the locals by being outside with wet hair), I thought it would be fun to share some of the cultural clues for living here in the Balkans.

• Yellow lights can mean either "go faster" or "go" depending upon which color comes next (red or green respectively)
• Parking on sidewalks is normal
• Ladies, don't get in the front seat of a taxi or the driver may try his best pick-up line on you
• Keep your shoes clean at all times (keeping a brush by the door is handy)
• Leave your shoes at the door (hostesses will provide slippers if needed, or you can bring your own)
• Have house shoes (slippers) available for your house guests
• Air-conditioning can give you a head ache and is the cause of neck and back pain
• Drafts (aka cross-breezes) will make you sick
• Ladies, don't sit on concrete without a sweater or cardboard beneath you or your ovaries will dry up
• Going outside with wet hair will make you sick (even if it's 100+ degrees)
• Being outside with wet hair won't make you sick if you're on the beach and swimming
• If shopping for produce at the supermarket be sure to have them price it for you BEFORE going to the checkout
• Paper or plas..er..pennies?? Thanks to a new law, produce baggies and check-out bags are paper (and with no handles!)... if you want plastic in the produce section: SOL; plastic at checkout? 3 Denars please. This applies everywhere: corner stores and even fast food places. So I'd suggest bringing your own bag. Must say, though, this is very green. :)
• Please don't talk loudly while walking in public or yell across the street to your buddies
• Don't make eye contact and smile at everyone you walk past; however, if you know the person, be prepared to stop, shake hands and chat for a couple of minutes... a simple nod of recognition won't do
• When in the outdoor market it's not necessary to answer each vendor with "no thank you" when they offer a "povelete?" [ha ha... I did that one a lot when I first got here and even now after 6 years am tempted...]
• Bring flowers or chocolate or some other small gift when visiting someone for the first time (or after a long time). Just be sure the flowers are in uneven numbers. Even numbers are reserved solely for condolences and funerals.
• When visiting, be sure to shake hands and greet each person in the room starting with the oldest and/or most important person.
• When people come to visit, be sure to immediately offer them something to drink (juice, coffee, tea... water as last resort) and put out something salty (like nuts) and/or sweet (chocolate or cookies) on the table.
• Salty and sweet food items are usually kept separate.. not served on the same plate (no sweet potatoes with that turkey!) and in buffets are usually placed on opposite sides of the table or on a different table altogether.
• Spitting in public is against the law and could cost you €50.

Now that you have some cultural clues for the Balkans... Come visit me and we'll put them into practice! =)

The Calf Yells "Le Le!" Kolede!

It's 6:45AM on Christmas Eve, January 6, 2009, and I am awakened by the first batch of children making their way through my neighborhood singing the Kolede Song. This year there is lots of icy snow on the ground and the children are bundled up like Ralfie's little brother.

Oops, there goes the doorbell. Hmm... it seems this group of children has added a drum to give the song a beat lively beat. lol. I must go answer the door and hand out this years treat: mandarins and chestnuts this year. =)

Here's a VERY rough translation of the song:

One icey Kolede

a tree limb fell on grandpa

grandpa was in agony.

Grandma incubates [sits on] 4 goose eggs.

Crazy happenings, Kolede!

Today is Kolede
tomorrow is Christmas

We're going to kill a calf
but the calf yells, "lele!"

I won't kill the calf
I'll give you veggies

and we'll make pita
for all of us to eat. Kolede!

It still gets me that the children are bundled up and out the door so early in the morning. My friend on the other side of town had them ringing her doorbell at 5AM this year. When my language teacher first told me about this I'd assumed that the children would come in the early evening like in the US for Halloween. So you an imagine my shock my first year here when my doorbell rang and children were singing this Grandma-got-run-over-by-a-reindeer-ish song at 6:30AM! It took me 7 years, but I was awake, dressed and ready for them this year! (See last years post for more on Christmas Eve in Macedonia.)

Christmas & Brand Marketing

So for two years for the holiday season there's been a bright pink Christmas tree in the center complete with big pink lighted spheres suspended over the square. This year, the new addition was the "T" on top of the tree.... this is because it was all sponsored by T-Mobile. It's all about branding and their color is pink... though all this pink reminds me of Pepto...

The interesting thing about living here in Macedonia is that all the commercialism, Santa, gift-giving, etc is centered around New Years rather than Christmas. So come January 7th, which is Christmas Day here, it's just Christmas with no commercialism. Kinda nice.

Macedonia

Some entertaining, insightful and interesting videos on Macedonian life and culture including:

• reading coffee grounds & superstition
• a deserted village
• life in Macedonian prisons
• betting in sports cafe's
• ghosts riding in taxis
• grave faces

Thanks to a Dutch friend of mine who recently forwarded me the link to this site! They're in Macedonian with English subtitles and I highly recommend checking them out.

Chewing Coffee

"Karolina, in the morning, first thing take a little honey. Because it's sweet all the bad things will be drawn to it in your stomach. Then drink one coffee to make everything dark so that the bacteria doesn't see what's coming. Then you drink a little rakija and it will kill then all."

That was a little story a local told me a while back. I think it was her father's daily routine to keep healthy. It's not surprising that his morning ritual included coffee as this is very much a coffee culture, though the type of coffee is much different than in the states. US coffee is frequently referred to as, "flavored water." One drink of the local brew, commonly known as "turkish coffee," and you would see why. Just be careful not to chew it...

The coffee beans are ground to a fine powder, similar to the consistency of cornstarch. A heaping spoonful for every cup (approximately 1/4C in size) of water is heated together with a lump of sugar (optional) until just boiling and foamy. It's then immediately removed from the heat and served one spoonful at a time so as to evenly disburse the foam between the cups.

My first encounter with turkish coffee was 8 years ago. As I sipped I kept getting mouthfuls of coffee grounds and found myself literally chewing the coffee. I was bewildered that people would actually enjoy coffee that way. Then I noticed that none of the locals were drinking yet... then the 'DUH' light went off in my head and I realized that the cup needed to sit for a while to let the grounds settle to the bottom before drinking. Aaahhaaa!

Those grounds become a finely-packed sludge on the bottom of the cup which some ladies will "read" much like some read tea leaves. When I was in Bosnia our host lady would flip her cup over when she was finished drinking and let the grounds drain down. Later when she was doing the dishes she'd look intently into the cup to figure out what the grounds were saying. Then with a "hmm" and a nod of her head she'd then wash the grounds away. I have no idea what she "saw" but she seemed satisfied.

I can't tell you how many cups of "turkish coffee" I've had over the years, but I can tell you that each cup represents many wonderful conversations and connecting with locals: learning language, hearing their life stories, future dreams and becoming friends. And for the privilege of that I'll happily keep chewing coffee. :)

Waiting in...er... line?

This morning I made my annual trip to the "9th Floor" to submit my visa documents, get finger-printed and get a photo taken. It was early but there was already quite a crowd waiting in front of the 2 working elevators that would only take 5 people at a time. Each time the elevator doors opened the people would surge forward to try to be one of the lucky few.

Once on the 9th and while waiting our turn outside the picture-taking-finger-printing office I took in the cultural phenomenon around me with regards to line etiquette... or, rather, the seemingly lack of it...

There was a crowd of people waiting and with no discernible sense of a line, everyone just seemed to know what there place was in the waiting order. New arrivals simply asked, "who's the last person?" received their answer and then went lean against a wall or sit on a bench to wait for their turn. Occasionally exceptions were made for families with young children, who were then allowed to cut to the front. Other's, however, simply muscled their way through in an effort to be the next one in the door regardless of the fact they were actually the last to arrive.

So it was with one particular man. Every time the office door opened the waiting crowd surged forward as if to insure the right person pops out the front and goes in next, and every time this one man tried to cut... sparking an intense verbal exchange. He was so insistent at points that others called the security guy over which sparked yet another heated discussion complete with animated hand gestures.

While all this was going on I couldn't help but long for the "Take A Number" machines that you find in California's DMV offices and other places.

Finally it came to our turn. The door opened the crowd surged forward and before my friend and I could get in that man had muscled his way in front of us and shut the door in our face! The security guard who'd put the man in his place earlier saw this but I think like the rest of us, though irritated by his cultural rudeness, were tired of this man's belligerence and let him go. In the end the security guard apparently gave him another talking to and as my friend and I were ushered in the man was all smiles... seriously, looked like a completely different man... and offered to buy us and the man who'd been next after us a coffee for our trouble.

Two words: Ле ле!

We politely declined as we all had a schedule to keep. It didn't take long to take my prints and to pose for my unsmiling picture (you're not allowed to smile... pictures are supposed to be serious). It was a bad picture, btw. Good thing I'm only stuck with it for a year (unlike the awful passport picture I've had since 2000). Anyways, this morning was another really good lesson in line etiquette here in the Balkans: know your place in the crowd, wait your turn and stand your ground... unless you can slip inside the door. :)

Day of the Dead - Macedonia

Halloween, something my nephews in the US are dressing up for as we speak, is not celebrated here in Macedonia. Tomorrow, however, is observed and is known as the "Day of the Dead" (aka. "All Soul's Day"). On this day families will go to the grave sites of their departed loved ones, clean the headstone, clear away debris, light candles for prayer, place flowers and have a meal. It's believed that the person's spirit is able to come and partake with them.

It's interesting to me the many traditions that are associated with the death of a loved one. I read on Wikipedia that in Orthodox tradition it's believed that from the moment of death that the person can visit the living for 40 days. Then on that 40th day the family again goes to the grave site and serves the same traditional meal items that were served graveside the day of the funeral (bread, wine/drink of some sort, something sweet, etc.). Again, it's believed the loved one's spirit partakes with them one last time before heading away from the living and into the afterlife.

As I ponder these traditions my thoughts go to those who are still in or just ending that 40-day period... I imagine this time is especially difficult for them, and I wonder if the traditions are as well, like tomorrow and the"Day of the Dead." I lost my own father several years ago and can keenly identify with the heart-ache of losing someone you love. Yet, there is a Hope that comforts us in our loss far more than anything else ever could. The hope of eternal life found in the One who has triumphed over death and its sting. As I consider this "holiday" and what meaning it may hold for so many, my heart is tugged to pray for them. Will you join me?

Recipe: Ljutenitsa or Pinjur... though not exactly ;)

Yesterday I gave a jar of Ajvar as a gift to a baba I know while describing Day-3 of our Ajvar-making weekend. I said we'd made another local specialty called Љутеница but she said that we didn't add hot (lute) peppers so it couldn't really be called lutenitsa. She suggested that it was more like Пинџур (pinjer) but since we didn't add tomatoes it wasn't exactly that either. Oh the dilema! So I teasingly suggest that we call it a combo of the two, something like, pinjenitsa (пинџеница). ;) No matter what name it goes by, the end product spread on bread with some creamy feta was delish!

From the 75 kilos of peppers we set aside about 15 that we cut up instead of ground. Same goes for a couple eggplant. Together with several cloves of garlic, fresh chopped parsley, 1 liter-ish oil, 1/4th-ish liter vinegar, and decent helpings of salt and sugar to taste made up our pinjenitsa.

Throw it all in a tanjer (голем танџер) and put on the stove over a roaring fire. Cook for about 2 hours stirring constantly with a big wooden spoon until broken down and flavor-filled but not completely smooshy like Ajvar. Or you can do what we did and ask a neighbor-lady if it was done yet. :)

Our batch yielded about 12 small jars of this delectible spread... there were a few more but we (7 of us) ate it for lunch while it was still warm. ;)