Chewing Coffee

"Karolina, in the morning, first thing take a little honey. Because it's sweet all the bad things will be drawn to it in your stomach. Then drink one coffee to make everything dark so that the bacteria doesn't see what's coming. Then you drink a little rakija and it will kill then all."

That was a little story a local told me a while back. I think it was her father's daily routine to keep healthy. It's not surprising that his morning ritual included coffee as this is very much a coffee culture, though the type of coffee is much different than in the states. US coffee is frequently referred to as, "flavored water." One drink of the local brew, commonly known as "turkish coffee," and you would see why. Just be careful not to chew it...

The coffee beans are ground to a fine powder, similar to the consistency of cornstarch. A heaping spoonful for every cup (approximately 1/4C in size) of water is heated together with a lump of sugar (optional) until just boiling and foamy. It's then immediately removed from the heat and served one spoonful at a time so as to evenly disburse the foam between the cups.

My first encounter with turkish coffee was 8 years ago. As I sipped I kept getting mouthfuls of coffee grounds and found myself literally chewing the coffee. I was bewildered that people would actually enjoy coffee that way. Then I noticed that none of the locals were drinking yet... then the 'DUH' light went off in my head and I realized that the cup needed to sit for a while to let the grounds settle to the bottom before drinking. Aaahhaaa!

Those grounds become a finely-packed sludge on the bottom of the cup which some ladies will "read" much like some read tea leaves. When I was in Bosnia our host lady would flip her cup over when she was finished drinking and let the grounds drain down. Later when she was doing the dishes she'd look intently into the cup to figure out what the grounds were saying. Then with a "hmm" and a nod of her head she'd then wash the grounds away. I have no idea what she "saw" but she seemed satisfied.

I can't tell you how many cups of "turkish coffee" I've had over the years, but I can tell you that each cup represents many wonderful conversations and connecting with locals: learning language, hearing their life stories, future dreams and becoming friends. And for the privilege of that I'll happily keep chewing coffee. :)