Leaping into Cold Waters for Luck

The men, about a hundred or so, are gathered in the swim trunks at the base of the Old Stone Bridge and ready to jump in an instant into the swift and frigid Vardar river to retrieve some luck and blessing for the coming year. This is Epiphany Day in Macedonia, an Orthodox holiday to celebrate the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist and to unite with him in it.

Thousands of spectators bracing against the cold January afternoon gather along the "Kej" (river path) to witness the spectacle. The Pontiff HH Stefan, the head of the Macedonian Orthodox Church, held a special service from the bridge and spoke a blessing over the river and the people with a cross. Then the cross is thrown into the current and the contestants make their leap. It's believed the one who retrieves the cross will have good health, happiness and luck in the coming year. According to the Macedonian Information Agency, this years winner also received a TV, electric range and fridge among other things.

Soon after this the people who had been watching will then make their way down to the waters edge to dip their hands, to sip and collect some in containers to bring home. It's believed the water is blessed now from the ceremony and so touching, sipping and bringing it home will bring that blessing into their lives and home.

I wasn't able to go today (these pics are from last year), but I am very glad for all those who did attend that the snow and ice has finally melted and the sun was shining brilliantly today, perhaps making things just a bit warmer. =)

Worship Without Words

The soft tones of the piano and the smooth voice of the violin blended in exquisite harmony and followed in measure by guitar, voices, eyes and even a few hands lifted heavenward. Yet out of my mouth came not one sound... still my heart was full as I stood in His presence and worshipped without words.

One of the most frustrating things about being so sick for so long with asthma, cough, infection, etc... was the loss of my voice. Last Monday a colleague called me on the phone and it took me three tries to get any kind of sound to my voice just to vocalize a scratchy, weak and practically whispered "hello". Today at church my voice was still hoarse and scratchy, yet I could talk... though it wasn't pretty. Singing, however, was simply out of the question. And for someone who loves to sing, especially songs for her King, it's, well, words fail to adequately describe the emotion... the disappointment... the discouragement...

Yet this morning was a very good lesson for me as I simply mouthed the words and, even more importantly, pondered them in my heart... and was still before Him. Voice and song are not the only instruments used in worship, though I confess it's my tendency to lean on singing as a primary form of it. Worship's true instrument, though, is really in many ways rather an attitude of heart that is not limited to song, but carries through every moment of the day, through our actions and interactions, through the very the details of life... through living each day such a life that brings honor and glory to the One who holds our heart... it also comes in the quietness and just being still in His presence, knowing that He is God. For me this morning I guess you could say that it took losing my voice to truly find it.

On Two Feet

Today was my first day back in the field office since getting sick. Though I love my job working to support the Balkan field as their bookkeeper, I can honestly say that today I was the most excited I've ever been about heading to the office... simply because I was able to get out of the apartment!

One thing that teaches me is that I'm someone who needs to go to work rather than just work from home. On the other hand, should the need present itself it's nice to know that my little portable external hard drive works well and enables me to work away from the office. I was able to do 95% of the bookkeeping while at home sick and just finished up the remaining 5% today. That's a good thing considering I'm planning on doing the field books while in the US.

Speaking of home assignment, there are a lot of things I need to get done before heading back. One of the big things will be the preparation for the team leaders of the financials they'll need for budget planning as well as field structure planning (in light of the major structural change that was made this past year). Additionally, it's a period of tough financial times for all right now and I believe that may weigh heavily during the budgeting process. Please do be in prayer as we work through this process. We want to be good stewards with what we've been given.

Back to today, it was truly wonderful to be outside and not stuck in my apartment. The weather has warmed up to the upper thirties and all the thick ice that had been coating the sidewalks has melted. It's such a relief! Tonight we also had a team get together, enjoying the wonderful culinary prowess of one colleage while sharing some laughter as well as well as meaningful field-related conversation and planning. It's so amazing to work with such a fine group of people who over the years have also become dear friends.

End note: The thing about this latest asthma struggle I've had is that it's served as a very real reminder of how I am completely dependant upon God for even the simple act of breathing. For someone who is prone to want to forge out on her own and do things in her own strength, it's a good reminder. This life I have, that I'm living, is a very precious gift and I want to live each day to honor the One who has given it to me. On another note, I want to express how grateful I am for those who have been praying for me or even sent encouraging notes during this time. Thank you so much.... I'm back on two feet. =)

Cultural Clues for Living in the Balkans

As I was hurrying to blow-dry my hair before heading down to the store just to buy some eggs (so as not to shock the locals by being outside with wet hair), I thought it would be fun to share some of the cultural clues for living here in the Balkans.

• Yellow lights can mean either "go faster" or "go" depending upon which color comes next (red or green respectively)
• Parking on sidewalks is normal
• Ladies, don't get in the front seat of a taxi or the driver may try his best pick-up line on you
• Keep your shoes clean at all times (keeping a brush by the door is handy)
• Leave your shoes at the door (hostesses will provide slippers if needed, or you can bring your own)
• Have house shoes (slippers) available for your house guests
• Air-conditioning can give you a head ache and is the cause of neck and back pain
• Drafts (aka cross-breezes) will make you sick
• Ladies, don't sit on concrete without a sweater or cardboard beneath you or your ovaries will dry up
• Going outside with wet hair will make you sick (even if it's 100+ degrees)
• Being outside with wet hair won't make you sick if you're on the beach and swimming
• If shopping for produce at the supermarket be sure to have them price it for you BEFORE going to the checkout
• Paper or plas..er..pennies?? Thanks to a new law, produce baggies and check-out bags are paper (and with no handles!)... if you want plastic in the produce section: SOL; plastic at checkout? 3 Denars please. This applies everywhere: corner stores and even fast food places. So I'd suggest bringing your own bag. Must say, though, this is very green. :)
• Please don't talk loudly while walking in public or yell across the street to your buddies
• Don't make eye contact and smile at everyone you walk past; however, if you know the person, be prepared to stop, shake hands and chat for a couple of minutes... a simple nod of recognition won't do
• When in the outdoor market it's not necessary to answer each vendor with "no thank you" when they offer a "povelete?" [ha ha... I did that one a lot when I first got here and even now after 6 years am tempted...]
• Bring flowers or chocolate or some other small gift when visiting someone for the first time (or after a long time). Just be sure the flowers are in uneven numbers. Even numbers are reserved solely for condolences and funerals.
• When visiting, be sure to shake hands and greet each person in the room starting with the oldest and/or most important person.
• When people come to visit, be sure to immediately offer them something to drink (juice, coffee, tea... water as last resort) and put out something salty (like nuts) and/or sweet (chocolate or cookies) on the table.
• Salty and sweet food items are usually kept separate.. not served on the same plate (no sweet potatoes with that turkey!) and in buffets are usually placed on opposite sides of the table or on a different table altogether.
• Spitting in public is against the law and could cost you €50.

Now that you have some cultural clues for the Balkans... Come visit me and we'll put them into practice! =)

Gas and "Refried Beans"

We just heard from colleagues in Sarajevo that the gas is once again flowing, their heat is on and they're beginning to thaw out. =) Thanks for praying, but please do keep in mind those who are struggling this winter.

That was the "gas" and now here's some "Refried Beans" aka... bookkeeping notes. =)

I've been continuing to work from home as I recover from whatever it is that I have, waiting for the other antibiotics to do their magic... yet this cough persists... I'm sure my neighbors are tired of hearing it as I am in hacking it. My muscles around my rib cage are so sore and my stomach feels like I've done several hundred sit-ups... hack, cough, crunch. The good news is that my peak flow meter (a way to measure my lung/breathing status) has shown steady improvement. Still, I'm sick of being sick and actually look forward to getting back to the office.


There is one benefit, though, to me working from home (besides my bed and fuzzy slippers). I suppose you could call it a sort of dry-run for doing the books while on home assignment (beginning in March). In the past when we've attempted to do the books from afar (meaning when the FD was traveling or I was on HA) it just didn't work. However, with the new field structure, I've been working from afar with the TL's now for eight-months worth of bookkeeping. And the process has only improved and been further streamlined. So much so I've been able to do the books completely from home this month (thanks to a portable external backup that contains everything I need and this wonderful laptop thanks to COTF). In fact, if things continue to go well, I'll be able to close in the next couple of days. :::happy dance:::

All this encourages me that the challenges we've had in the past with trying to do the books from afar will not present themselves and gives me a bit of ease in readying for home assignment. Speaking of readying for home assignment, I would appreciate your prayer as there is lots to accomplish between now and March. Additionally, I still don't know where I will be staying either, so would really appreciate your prayers for that too. Thank you!

Deep Freeze....

Last night's low in Sarajevo was 5 degrees Fahrenheit... the high was only 27F. Now imagine living in those cold conditions without heat. Such has been the situation for our colleagues in Bosnia since Tuesday. They and millions of others throughout the Balkans have been adversely affected by the natural gas dispute between Russia and Ukraine. Here in Macedonia, we've had some reserves and do have heat, however factory production has been cut by 50% and now the face a possible "forced vacation".

While it looks like the dispute will finally be resolved and the gas mains reopened, CNN reports that it can be up to 10 hours before people will again be able to feel the heat and begin to thaw out. In the meantime, please do pray for those who have been struggling without heat, my heart goes especially to the young, the elderly, the homeless, and those living in shanty towns. Furthermore, Europe-wide this winter has been the coldest in years and the forecast is for more of the same. Please be praying. Thank you!

Earthquake

Yesterday as I sat on my bed, still sick yet trying to work on reimbursement reports, I was suddenly aware of feeling like I was on a boat. It was a strange sensation, swishy-sway, and I was a bit baffled at first as to what was going on. Then I noticed the lamp, curtains and fan also swaying. Of course the next thing I did was to message a couple of colleagues to find out if they also felt the earth move beneath their feet. They did, so that was nice know that it wasn't just me. =)

Turns out the earthquake yesterday was centered in the Gostovar region of Macedonia and was mostly felt around Skopje and Tetevo. Since it was a swishy-sway rather than a wriggle-jiggle, I assume that it wasn't a very big one, yet here in Skopje any earthquake can shake the memory of the locals as in 1963 the city was decimated by a large one. In fact, the building behind the Christmas tree in the city center was the only building to really survive in the center. The remains of the old train station pictured up top stands as a memorial to the victims, the clock forever testifying of the moment the quake hit. It's been 45 years and the city has rebuilt, yet I imagine yesterdays tremor gave many pause.


As for me, you'd think being from California that I'd have lots of experience with earthquakes, but I must confess yesterdays and its aftershock last night was only the 3rd one I'd ever felt. The first was when I was at college that jiggled me awake one night. The second was about 5 years ago here in Skopje and hit just as I was about to plug in my hairdryer. The sound was like 10 semi's barreling through my apartment. I scurried to the doorway and as I braced myself I was very aware of each and every cinder block rumbling all around me... and all the while praying the foundation was firm and wouldn't fall under the test. Yesterday's quake was not so dramatic, but it was still impressive... and an experience I'd be happy to forgo in the future.

Language Woes & Getting the Wrong Medication

As I type this my arm is still sore and sporting a nasty bruise from the IV that was stuck into it earlier this morning. Doctor visits are usually all in Macedonian and used to be a confidence booster for me and language learning... but thanks to a serious miscomunication I learned the hard way that I've got a ways to go.

My specialist in the US always told me that with my mix of allergies and asthma I should never take a drug that is related to Penicillin as it will always make my asthma much worse. I thought I'd communicated this to the doctor succinctly on Monday, including mentioning a popular brand of antibiotic that I musn't take. She assured me that what she was prescribing me would be OK.

Well, the next day, Tuesday, after taking the third dosage I just wasn't getting any better. Infact, my asthma was worse and headed towards acute. So I pulled out the package to do some reading.... only to find I'd been taking the exact thing I couldn't!! I was bewildered because I'd told her I couldn't take that... but then I realized that I must have said it wrong or something, or she thought I said I could instead of couldn't.

A quick call to the hospital and explaination to the receptionist resulted in her calling the doctor and then getting me hooked up with her cell phone number. After a lengthy conversation, and my asthma getting worse by the moment thanks to the anxiety I was feeling about taking the wrong med, we agreed that I should run down to the corner pharmacy (aka Apteka) and explain the situation, show them my prescription and then have them call the doctor. 20 minutes later, and a few tears of shear relief, I was sliping/sliding my way on the iced-over sidewalk in the figid night air and back home with the new antibiotic in hand.

This morning I went back to the hospital for a check-up with the doctor. After listening to my lungs she informed me that I needed an "infusia" and I thought maybe it would be breathing through a nebulizer for a while (an airiated-misty form of recieving medicine into the lungs). Nope. It was an IV and oooww was it painful! If I'm not better tomorrow I'll have to get another one. Please pray that I'm better and don't have to!!

Talking to the doctor both on Tuesday and again today it was clear that we'd just completely misunderstood each other. I'd thought I'd been clear and so had she, but in language learning you learn that that's not always true.

Lessons learned:

1. When going to the doctor always make sure there is a translator available to make sure that my "flawless" Macedonian is actually not flawed. And so that what the doctor is saying is completely clear with little to no gray.

2. Don't just blindly trust that the doctor prescribed the right thing, because like in my case they may have understood you to say "could" instead of "couldn't". Always read up on the medicine before taking it -- or at least reading the package to be sure that you're not taking something you know you shouldn't.

The Calf Yells "Le Le!" Kolede!

It's 6:45AM on Christmas Eve, January 6, 2009, and I am awakened by the first batch of children making their way through my neighborhood singing the Kolede Song. This year there is lots of icy snow on the ground and the children are bundled up like Ralfie's little brother.

Oops, there goes the doorbell. Hmm... it seems this group of children has added a drum to give the song a beat lively beat. lol. I must go answer the door and hand out this years treat: mandarins and chestnuts this year. =)

Here's a VERY rough translation of the song:

One icey Kolede

a tree limb fell on grandpa

grandpa was in agony.

Grandma incubates [sits on] 4 goose eggs.

Crazy happenings, Kolede!

Today is Kolede
tomorrow is Christmas

We're going to kill a calf
but the calf yells, "lele!"

I won't kill the calf
I'll give you veggies

and we'll make pita
for all of us to eat. Kolede!

It still gets me that the children are bundled up and out the door so early in the morning. My friend on the other side of town had them ringing her doorbell at 5AM this year. When my language teacher first told me about this I'd assumed that the children would come in the early evening like in the US for Halloween. So you an imagine my shock my first year here when my doorbell rang and children were singing this Grandma-got-run-over-by-a-reindeer-ish song at 6:30AM! It took me 7 years, but I was awake, dressed and ready for them this year! (See last years post for more on Christmas Eve in Macedonia.)

I don't know everything... How shocking!

They stuck a needle in me and drew blood! That was something I'd successfully avoided for the 6+ years that I've been here in the Balkans. Unfortunately that all came to an end today with a trip to the doctor after having a persistent cough for over a week now.

I've not had a cold, flu, stuffy nose, temperature, or other such malady so I'd just assumed it was my asthma acting up because of the cold weather. Usually, though, my inhalers clear the problem, and after a week it was clear that something else must have been going on. The results of the blood test showed that I either had a tumor or a bacterial infection. My doctor concluded it was the latter(!!) and prescribed an antibiotic.

This is where the lesson comes in for me. You see, I've lived with asthma for just about 30 years now and so I am very familiar with what the triggers are (environmental, dietary, etc), know to keep calm when having an attack, to let my inhalers do their job, and know what my lungs feel like when it's serious and I need to see a doctor.

The problem is that over time I've gotten used to living with such a high level of discomfort and have often simply ridden it out (sometimes even acute asthma attacks) when I should have gone to the doctor. Such is the case this time. I should have seen a doctor last week when the cough first hit and made my voice sound like a frog. The doctor chastised me for this, though she was very kind about it, and made me promise to come see her immediately should something like this happen again. Yes ma'am. Lesson learned: I don't know everything I thought I did.

On another note, I must say that I am SOOOO grateful for Remedika, which is a hospital here in Skopje. This is the same place I'd gone for the stitches in my foot two February's ago. The staff there are so nice and helpful. AND, with regards to sterility and cleanliness they are tops! For instance, today when going to tape the cotton ball over the puncture point the nurse accidentally dropped the tape on the ground. It immediately went in the trash bin and she pulled out a brand new one! Again, I am so thankful that such a place exists here in the event that one does need medical attention... and I promise that next time I won't wait so long to see a doctor.

Quote of the Snowy Day

"Tato! Tato!" cried the young boy sitting on a sled in the snow being towed by his father. "Prvo levo," the boy called and then continued with the mixture of excitement and wonder that only fresh falling snow can bring. "i [ee] sega... Pravo! Pravo! Pravo!"

He then gripped the sides of his sled in great anticipation and complete faith and trust in his father that not only would he pull him fast and with a sense of adventure, but that he'd also keep him safe. "Dobro, srtse," says the father dotingly as he begins to pull his son first left and then straight, straight, straight on the powdery path in the city park. Smiles all around.

While this interaction was going on between one father and son, another father was helping his son to build a snowman on his sled. In fact, there were several families out adventuring in the snow with snowball fights and sledding down hills. Witnessing such special moments between parents and children always brings a smile to my face and warms my heart. May the memories made today by these families last a lifetime and may there be many many more such special moments in their lives in the future. =)

I was so inspired that later while I was killing some time in a cafe with a coffee I had some fun doodling the event.

Happy New Year from Skopje

New Years in Skopje was something I'd been looking forward to this year, as we had such a great time last year hanging out with friends and having dinner, games and then heading downtown to watch the fireworks. This year, however, I was in bed or huddled under a blanket most of the day thanks to dry cold air, asthma and a nasty cough.

That said, I did still bundle up in as many layers as possible to head down to the center with a friend because an ABBA tribute band named "Arrival" was slated to bring in the New Year. Come on, you know you'd be bundling up too for the chance to shiver to the beat of "Dancing Queen" and to see the night sky lit up by sparkly fireworks. ;) It was a fun night and we had a great time (though I am paying for it a bit with a cough that won't quit that is making my voice sound like that of a frog).

Here are some pics as well as a video... (gotta love the Santa drinking Coke just like the commercial). lol. Happy New Year to you from Skopje, Macedonia!!!!