Taste of Home!

The local cuisine here in Macedonia is really wonderful, to be honest--especially the skara (aka. grilled meat), bread and shopska (aka. cucumber, tomato and shredded feta salad).  However, there are just some days that I miss a good California club sandwich, a non-mixed meat burger without fries stuffed in the bun, or Cali-Mex flavors.  You know, a taste of home.  Those days tend to pop up more often during the holiday's, btw.

Well, Sunday after church while enjoying macciatos and conversation with friends, one couple mentioned finding a new restaurant called, "Taste of California."  Yes, I admit that my head snapped up and the "where?!" was out of my mouth before I could even fully process the comment.  Then came their description of real nachos, homemade guacamole, salsa, real burgers, sandwiches and, be still my heart, Cali-Mex! They enjoyed it so much they went two days in a row! [Seriously, I must admit that my mouth is watering even as I type this!] 

Yesterday another friend and I decided to track this place down and to give it a try.  Oh my goodness!  Let me just say that it was WONDERFUL.  We ordered nachos and taquitos to share/try and a club sandwich.  It was all delicious, but I must say that so far my favorite is the club: grilled chicken, lettuce, tomato, melted cheese, bacon and advocado on lightly toasted, homemade bread... the proportions were perfect and the flavor was.... a taste of home!

Yep!  You guessed it!  This California girl has signed off on this "Taste of California" in Skopje, Macedonia as being pretty authentic and a welcomed taste of home.  For those who are interested, it's located on Ortse Nikolov between DM and Hotel Tim's.

For those who are interested, it's located on Ortse Nikolov between DM and Hotel Tim's.

Overcoming Incompetence

Moving overseas into a new culture and language is like becoming a child again in many ways. Everyday things that we accomplish without thinking in our home country become monumental tasks in the new one. And our self-esteem? Well, with the steep descent from being a competent adult to a complete incompetent bowl of culture-shock-stress-filled jelly is brutal. Honestly, even the simplest tasks can make you feel like a child again.

I remember....

...the first time I purchased produce in the supermarket... and felt totally embarrassed when they had to send it ALL back with a clerk to the produce department to get weighed and priced as it's not done at the check-out.

...the stress of getting an official-looking paper saying I had to go to the customs office for a package that just arrived for me... and bursting into culture-shock-induced tears as they proceeded to grill me and I couldn't understand a thing they were saying! (fyi, it was just an exercise video).

...breaking out in a sweat when I had to take a bus... not sure I was on the right one, whether it was "private" or "public", how much it cost, baffled about what to do with a ticket if there was one and how to get off at the right stop (yes, there's even a particular etiquette for that as well and if you don't follow it the bus may not stop).

...riding in a taxi and helplessly motioning the directions to where I was supposed to go when I didn't even know the words for "left" or "right" or "stop here, please."

...answering the phone.

...the stress having people say things to me and the complete feeling of being like a "deer in headlights" when I couldn't understand a single word... or worse yet, understanding the words but not having a CLUE as to what they were actually saying.

...the uncertainty about fast food places like the one pictured and, aside from WHAT to order, but how to do it...

...the annoyance of "personal space" being much different here than back in the USA... and store clerks following you around.... to be honest, this particular one can still get under my skin.

...the continued culture-stress reality of learning to live in a constant state of ambiguity.

...my first trip to the doctor when my back went out and being told that I need to turn the air-conditioning off.

...my first trip to apply for a visa... the long dark hallways with closed doors where everyone seemed to know which door they had to go to and what the etiquette was for going through it and doing their business... I was scared spitless, to be honest...

And then there was today...

All foreigners need to register with the local police within 24 hours of coming into the country and then de-register when they leave. When you have a visa, though, that's no longer necessary.... unless your visa expires before they've processed the paperwork for the new one.

That's the situation I found myself in this morning...

When I first came here, registering with the police was SO scary and VERY intimidating! This morning? Sure, I was a little nervous (I mean, come on... who isn't nervous when they have to talk to the police... or when you have one driving behind you--even when you're driving the speed limit?!) But you know what??? It went so smoothly! I simply explained the situation with my visa and the officer didn't bat an eye and was really nice and helpful. I filled out the proper form (IN Macedonian, mind you), turned it in and confirmed that I need to return when my new visa arrives. I felt so... so.... COMPETENT! Especially since it was ALL done in Macedonian! Yay me!

I was so excited about this small triumph that I even called a colleague to share my joy who responded with equal excitement and encouragement for herself about when she needs to do it as well.

Seriously, to some this may seem like a small thing, but for someone who's moved from a country, language and culture with social rules that were part of me to a place where even paying the monthly bills inspired a certain amount of boot-shaking... this is a serious triumph! A celebration of overcoming incompetence!

If You Build it, Rain Will Come

This Autumn has been an especially wet one here in Skopje and my taxi-driver this morning informed me as to why that is. The conversation went something like this:

"How do you like all this rain? We are like London now."

"Oh, it's wonderful. I actually enjoy it very much." [Yes, I did say that and actually mean it!]

"Well, it's because of the two new lakes that we have all this rain."

"Excuse me?"

"Yes! We've had Lake Matka for many years, but now they built two new lakes on the Treska River."

Thinking to myself: I've seen at least one of them and it's not much more than a glorified puddle. And the Treska isn't big like the American River... or the Sacramento... For my Folsom Lake friends: Lake Matka is a tad bit bigger than one of the lakes in Hidden Lakes Estates... ie: a stone-throw-and-a-half across and maybe a quarter mile long.


But I responded, "Really? Honestly, I have a hard time buying that. There's more rain all over, not just in Skopje."

To which he replied with authority, "Oh yes, but it's true! My father is a meteorologist and he did a study on this and he told me this is why we are having more rain. Before 5, 6 years we had maybe 175 days of rain and now we have about 200, but with the new lakes we will have more like 260 days of rain this year!"

"Oh, so that's why they built the lakes?"

"Yes!"

So there you go! "If you build it, Rain will come!" =)

Even the Trees are Confused

October 1st. The city heat gets turned on in 14 days and in years past we've been wishing it were already turned on by October 1st. This year has been so different. Skopje is actually seeming to have a Fall. Shocking because the common sentiment (aka joke) here is that Macedonia has only two seasons: winter and summer.

Just like last year our end of summer church potluck in August came a day after record high 100+ degree weather and in just 3 days it was already about 30 degrees cooler. But then, unlike last year, it got warm again. Sure, it never got over 100 again, but it's been consistently warm and humid.

So here we are at the beginning of October still (shockingly) wearing short sleeves despite the fact the first day of Fall is a week or so behind us. And all this has apparently completely confused some of the trees because they're blooming like it's Spring! Seriously, the site makes me laugh out loud, because it's just so, for lack of a better word, chudno! (Translation: strange.)

Poor trees. They're so confused. But I sure don't mind. It's kinda fun to see the beautiful blooms and bright green signs of life in contrast to all the orange and red signs of death (or winter hibernation).

To be honest, though, I'm not ready for the deep chill of winter to descend yet. Just not quite prepared to put away the capri's, flip-flops and the warmth of the sun on my face. =)

Sourdough!

Growing up in California I developed a taste for the wonder that is sourdough bread, my favorites being the ones from San Francisco and San Luis Obispo. There's nothing better than a chunk of sourdough bread and pepperjack cheese or a sandwich made with the fragrant and tasty bread.

Sourdough bread is one of the "foods" I miss most living here in the Balkans. Last year while I was in Wyoming I found an "Oregon trail" comic cookbook that had a simple starter recipe for sourdough. Upon my return to the Balkans I eagerly set about preparing the starter... but then it got this funky, smelly liquid on top and I thought I'd ruined it. So I threw it all away and started over. This time there was no funky liquid, but then the dough never rose either... I mean, I waited a whole two hours. So I threw that one away too.

I must interject an important factoid at this point: I have NEVER made bread on my own before. I've tried, but always failed. So my dreams of sourdough, while a simple thing to some, was overly ambitious for me. And the above experiences seemed to prove it.

But then a few weeks back after a mildly successful try at a simple bagel recipe (the dough actually rose!!) I decided to try my hand again at my favorite of the breads: sourdough. Instead of using the old west cookbook I decided to "Google" (don't you just love how that's a verb now??) "sourdough starter" on the internet. And this is the site I found: Sourdough Baking by S. John Ross.

He made it sound so easy, growing a "pet" of sourdough starter, so I gained a little confidence. A cup of flour and a cup of water and daily "feeding" for a week resulted in a starter that was bubbly and smelled pretty good. So into the fridge it went and now just weekly "feedings." Then on Saturday I decided that it was time. So I dumped the starter in a bowl and prepared the "sponge" for "proofing." And then I went to bed.

In the morning there were no bubbles and no "froth." Did I ruin it?? "I have such bad luck with breads," I muttered in disappointment and decided to "feed" it just once more before heading to church. Five hours later I arrived home to find my sponge was smelly and frothy like it was supposed to be! Yeah me! So in went the flour and other ingredients and then the kneading... and kneading... and kneading... And then back into the bowl to rise. It took about 6 HOURS to double in bulk, but after beating it down and forming mini loaves they rose a second time in just an hour.

I couldn't believe it! Could I be "this" close to having actual sourdough bread?? Well, after 45 minutes in the oven I got to savor warm bread with melted butter... and it was wonderful! It wasn't perfect and the loaf looks a little odd, but I think it's cute and I'm so proud. ;)

And I can't wait to try making it again... and again... and again... =)

"I signed I signed my life away... "

One of the newest songs we've been singing at the International Church has a chorus that goes, "You gave you gave your life away.... You gave you gave your life away.... You gave you gave your life away.... for me!" Well the tune was skipping on that line in my head this morning while I was at the bank, though admittedly with some minor changes to the lyrics.

Two days ago I went to the bank to close an account... and spent well over an hour there and had to fill out SO MANY forms with so MUCH detail. Just to CLOSE the account! Well, after feeling like I'd given almost everything but a kidney, I left the bank cash in hand thinking that all was good.

Not so.

About 3 hours later I got a phone call to inform me that in the process of closing the account they had posted interest (cool)... and so placed it in my main account. Huh? I'm sorry, "what?" My "main" account? I thought I'd closed everything.... at least that's what I told them I wanted to do...

Apparently it got lost in translation...

So back to the bank I go this morning... and spent ANOTHER hour there to close an account that I'd thought was closed two days ago. And as each piece of paper was shoved through the small slot under the bullet-proof glass that song's tune was playing in my mind to the lyrics of, "I signed I signed my life away... I signed I signed my life away... I signed I signed my life away... bank-iiinnnngg!" TWENTY-THREE signatures in all... Yes, you read that right: 23!

Another version of the song would be... "We killed we killed a tree today... We killed we killed a tree today... We killed we killed a tree today... this morning!"

Oh yes... and the best part of all this (feel the slight tinge of sarcasm)... it was all for €7.81. LOL.

On another note, though, the teller and the manager who was helping me were very helpful, courteous and nice... and so made what could have been a nightmare culture experience not so bad at all... and quite pleasant. If I need to open another bank account someday I wouldn't hesitate to use the same bank.

Simple Pleasures

It's always exciting when something new appears on the shelves here in Skopje. Things like: M&Ms, brown sugar, tortillas, Brita filters and so much more! Well, the newest item to show up was celery stalk! Frankly, I couldn't hide my excitement when I saw them! I snatched one up and held it too my chest, smiling like an idiot and dreaming of all the wonderful things that can be done with celery. Sure, we've been able to get celery root here all along, but it's JUST NOT THE SAME as the snappy, crunchy wonder that is a celery stalk (especially in soups, stuffing, stir fry, etc).

The next purchase I made was some peanut butter.... mmmm..... celery sticks and PB... a favorite snack. It's amazing how something so simple can bring so much pleasure. :)

Epiphany

"I live in the Balkans." Sometimes that realization makes me catch my breath.... or pinch myself. Standing on the bank of the Vardar River with a few thousand of my neighbors to watch a cross be thrown into the river on a chilled January day known as "Epiphany" I was again caught up in the wonder of it all.

This California girl who took high school Spanish with Mr. Marelich, but never really applied it, was now bundled up listening to the priest bless the river in Macedonian... and actually understanding more than a fair bit. Most of my days are spent communicating in a strange mix I refer to as Makaenglish: Macedonian in stores, taxis, on the street, with friends and English just as often.

Then there's the cultural learning... somehow after living here for several years I've learned to live with the constant state of cultural stress and ambiguity, knowing that there will always be things, cultural subtleties, that I won't understand. To be honest, there are some days that the stress really wears on me and I'm tempted to pack up and go back to the familiar of "home" in the US...

But then there are conversations over turkish coffee, shared meals, the human connections that happen in the sharing of lives, hopes, dreams, joys, fears..... and days like that cold one two weeks ago where I find myself simply soaking it all in: the people, the language, the culture, the.... the unfamiliarity of this place where East and West converge that somehow has become so familiar in my heart. My personal epiphany I suppose you could say. Yes, I love the people here, the place, the culture.

I live in the Balkans.

The Incessant Buzz Buzz Buzz of a Christmas Eve Morning....

This morning started really early. 6am to be exact. Buzz! buzz! buzzz! as a finger incessantly pushes the button for my apartment so I'll get up and buzz them into the building. I sleepily looked at my watch, turned over and pulled the covers over my head.

Then the sound of young voices began to echo up the stairwell and down the hallways of my building, in ever increasing volume, "...Kolede lede padnalo grede.... ke koleme tele tele vika 'le le'..... Kolede!" (a really horrible song, btw). Over and over they sang the song as they trolled each level of my building and ringing everyone's doorbells just hoping for someone to open their door and give them nuts, fruit, coins or candy.

Yes, in the past I've gotten up and handed out tangerines or chestnuts, but this year I decided not to. As a foreigner here, learning about the culture and traditions is important.... and I must say very interesting. The tradition of the children going door-to-door does have it's roots in pagan folk religion, most similar to Halloween, but still it's a part of the culture and important for a guest like me to learn about. And to be honest, I really enjoy learning about other cultures. And the traditions around Christmas are definitely something to experience. However, having experienced it several times since living here, I decided this year that I'd not answer the door and sleep in instead.

Sleep.... well.... I didn't get much of that regardless of how hard I tried. However, I was luckier than others whose doorbells rang and streets were filled with children's voices singing the verses in a sing-songy melody reminiscent of "Ring Around the Rosie" as early at 3 and 4am!!! Eventually, though, sleep eluded me enough that I simply got up and began the day.

On another note, it's Christmas Eve and it looks like it won't be a white Christmas after all. The snow melted today. =( The bit we did have, though, made for an ironic sight yesterday that had me laughing when I was in the city center. It's one of those random pieces of art that have gone up around the city. This one is called, "Chance meeting." Take a good look at the picture and try to guess what I found so funny. I'll give you a hint... that puff of white is NOT a hat on her head! ;)


Doorbell image credit: http://thesophisticated.wordpress.com/2008/03/

Customs and Lines

You see them, first time travelers, disheveled, wrinkled and looking as wide-eyed as a deer in headlights while trying to negotiate their way through immigration, aka. Customs. Many times I've wished they'd actually hand out a list of "Customs" for these newbie visitors if only to ease their nervousness.

Last week while waiting in the "Foreign Residents" line at the airport, I reflected back to when I myself was one of those newbies. It was 2001, just a year after the crisis in Kosovo and I was here with a short term group to help with humanitarian aid and teaching English. We'd been traveling for about 36 hours, which included an overnight in the Zurich airport, and arrived tired and very hot as it was 100+ degrees outside.

As we stood in the customs line, not really sure if we'd picked the right one, I felt as if I'd followed the rabbit down the hole into wonderland... or rather, "where am I again" land". Everyone around spoke a different language, there were strange sights, smells and, well, everything was different... I did mention this was my first time in Eastern Europe, right?

Anyways, what got me thinking about all this last week was due to the EXTRA TIME I had to wait and wait and wait in the customs line... and how 8 years ago when waiting in this same line I unwittingly started a tradition that continues to this day: I pick the wrong line and always seem to be one of the LAST FOUR people on the plane to be processed. Always. It's like Murphy's Law or something.

Yes.... I am writing a blog on this.... I claim sleep-deprivation and jet-lag! ;)

It never fails... each time I return to Skopje I end up picking the wrong line at customs... this time I thought I'd picked a good one as it was moving quickly and there were at least 30 people behind me. I thought, "Yeah, this looks great! I just may break the vicious cycle of wrong-line-picking."

Well, no sooner had I thought that than I noticed a group of "foreigners" (aka non-locals) being given the VIP treatment and being escorted to the front of MY LINE! (The people were arriving for some special event happening that was sponsored by the Ministry of Culture or something.) When all is said and done, I was again one of the last people to make it through customs. Even the 30 or so people behind me managed to maneuver to another line. :(

The upside of all this, though, was that due to the little green ribbon I tied to each of my pieces of luggage, an airport worker had removed each of my suitcases from the baggage claim belt and stacked them neatly on a cart! So when I got through customs (and walked by the table with the Swine Flu hand-outs) my luggage was ready to go! So, no complaints about waiting this time.

Besides, getting in the wrong line almost seems nostalgic at this point anyways. ;) My own personal Macedonian-entry-custom, I supposed one could say.

*******

Note: Some may wonder about me using this image again.... well, it's become a fond image for me to use with anything refering to waiting in line. So, as one tradition/custom continues, so does another. ;)

A Little Trip

Sleep deprivation has been my friend, my constant companion, since returning from the US this week. I find myself wide awake at 2am, at times sleeping in until 2pm, then wanting to go to bed at 5pm! Then when I am awake it's like I'm sleep-walking in some sort of strange fog. Oui! Gotta love jet-lag!

This morning I was up at a somewhat normal time (9am) and so after sitting with some java and QT for a while, I decided to set out on my first real adventure back into life in Skopje. Yes, I went shopping!

Walking out the door I was immediately struck by all sounds and fragrances of the city: car horns, conversations of passersby, fragrant trees (like honeysuckle), exhaust, fresh bread... I could go on and on... but it all combined to evoke the fond memories of Skopje and a sigh of joy to be back here. :)

As I walked to the store I also took in just how much had changed in three months: one store out of business, three new ones, a building almost completed and a cafe that has completely renovated (for the 2nd time in as many years).

In the store things had changed as well. Whole aisles have been rearranged and not many things were in the same places I remembered them. At least the produce department gives you plastic bags again for collecting fruit (the paper ones, while green, were not quite user-friendly). I also found freezer bags--a bonus find I must say!

After negotiating my way around the store my cart was a bit full (mostly veggies and cleaning supplies... the basics, really)... so I decided to catch a cab home. Well, while I was waiting, the sleepiness of jet-lag was starting to hit and so I wasn't really paying attention. Next thing I know my shopping cart had rolled off the curb and splattered my bags and their contents all over the pavement!

As I righted the cart and re-packed up the groceries, I chuckled at myself and the funniness of the whole thing and then vowed to take a nap when I got home... Sleep deprivation, though, made for a fun trip and I am convinced it's why it seems so strange for me to be back. lol

Transitions, Cultural Stress & Being a Foreigner

In my last blog I ended with the musing, "Am I feeling more Macedonian or American today?" Frankly, it's an especially relevant question for me right now as I'm just a day away from getting on a plane heading to the US. I'm sitting here surrounded by packing, going over the last-day checklist of bookkeeping, backups, goodbyes, packing, cleaning..... and trying to wrap my head around the fact that I'll be in my hometown tomorrow night. Just about 36 hours from now.

Back in the day overseas travel meant spending a month on a ship, which gave a very clear buffer in leaving your old culture, language, family and friends behind and preparing to enter a new culture, learn a new language, make new friends and become part of a different sort of family.

Now that buffer is just 24 hours of lay-overs, security checks and general sleep deprivation at 30,000 feet!

Returning to your home culture encompasses a whole new level of culture-stress known as "re-entry." Living and working overseas for almost 7 years I've lost a bit of my "American-ness" and gained a healthy dose of "Macedonian-ness" and even "European-ness." It's a strange sensation, like having your world-view expanded and contracted at the same time.

I've been gone from the US long enough that there are many social-conscious/culture events that I won't be able to identify with as fully as if I'd lived in the US (example: the election). Likewise, living here in the Balkans I've experienced the social-conscious/culture events along with the Balkan people (example: Kosovo's independence), something that my American friends likewise won't be able to fully identify with. In a nutshell, we've all changed as we've interacted with the culture in which we live.

It's strange to realize that I will likely feel like a foreigner in my home country similar to my feelings of foreignness here... and I'm sure I'll have plenty of examples to share in the weeks to come! =) The one thing, though, that I have truly come to appreciate about this moving between cultures is the deeper understanding into what scripture means that this world is not our ultimate home. The citizenship that trumps all others is the one that is heavenly and eternal. So from day to day I may "feel" varying degrees of being "American" or "Macedonian," but one thing is sure, I'm always God's kid (to use a beloved term of Dr. Johnson). =)

See you on the other side of the pond!

Buying Time

Heading down the detergent aisle I spotted what looked like a bottle of "Tide" only it was actually a bottle of "Time." Ha! I must confess, I simply LOVE the irony of "buying time" and how fitting it is to apply it to doing laundry in the Balkans...

For almost 7 years now I've washed my clothes in a washer that doesn't clean too well and takes up to 3 hours to run a cycle. The clothes are then hung either on a drying rack in my living room in the Spring and Fall, on the balcony in the Summer and, my personal favorite, on the radiators in the Winter.

Hung on the racks it can take up to three days for clothes to dry... and it's hard to escape that musty smell and always wondering about potential mold growth (some colleagues have had this experience, not on the clothes, but on the walls of their apartment!). In the summers, which, just like my hometown in Sacto, are always blistering here in Skopje, clothes can be dry in less than an hour for cottons, two for thicker fabrics. The next fastest drying time is on the radiators in winter, which depends upon how much the heat has been cranked up on the water pumping through them from the central station.

Trivia:
The reason why the last one is my favorite is because it's the closest my towels ever get to the fluffy soft ones that come out of the WONDERFUL dryers in the US. The rest of the year I have to settle with rough stiffness (as evidenced in the picture)... and no, fabric softener doesn't help with that much. (Oh how I miss dryer sheets too!)

The thing about doing laundry here is that it takes planning ahead. There are no quick loads of laundry. It takse time, sometimes days. That's why I love the irony of buying "Time" to do my laundry. =)

This irony deepens for me, however, because I realize how my concept of time has changed since being here... the rhythm of time in the Balkans is so much different than in the US. Sigh.... I'm really tempted to discuss these differences here, but I'm thinking it is best explored in a blog entry all on it's own. So for the moment I will simply leave you with the fascinating image of being able to literally buy some Time. =)

No Comment

No sooner were the words "I'm a bookkeeper for..." out of my mouth when she interrupted me with, "Oh! Do you have a blog??"

"Uh, yes. A Bookkeepers Balkan Update," I responded, question and surprise punctuating my voice.

"Ha! My husband and I just found your blog while looking for information on the Balkans!" she explained excitedly.

I sat a little dumbfounded and (to be honest) just a bit creeped out. I knew it was bound to happen one of these days, but was totally unprepared to meet someone in person who first met me through this blog. lol. This little interaction was followed with a fun discussion of life and culture here in the Balkans. They're a lovely couple and I'm looking forward to getting to know them over the weeks and months to come. (And if you're reading this: so nice to have met you!) =)

This was a relevent reminder that people do read this blog and reinforces the chosen focus I have for it: to simply share about life and culture here in the Balkans from an expat's viewpoint and always with respect. Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoy reading about the Balkans as much as I enjoy living in it! =)

Goodies!! Thank you!

As I exited the elevator my eyes glanced towards my mailbox... and what did I see?? A green card! Yes, the wondrous little post-card that lets me know there's a box waiting for me at the post office. =) Inside were some delightful goodies that have "share me" written all over them. ;)

Two "totally American" things I'm most often asked the recipes for are: Rice Crispy treats and chocolate chip cookies. And since we can't get marshmallows nor real chocolate chips here I'm really excited to share these items AND the recipe cards that were so sweetly included! Also the Starbursts will be shared soon as well. Books are always a blessing too. I love to read and it's hard to track down good titles locally. I'm looking forward to reading both of these and then passing them around as well. The last care package I had included A Thousand Splendid Suns which was fabulous and has since made the rounds to about 5 other people!

Being the recipient of a care package is always special and such a treat. The name "care package" says it all. That someone thought of you, put in fun things that they thought you would like (or in the case of my friends, things that harken to cherished shared memories or inside jokes) and pack it all up and send to you with love. I can't begin to express what a blessing it is to us workers living overseas to have a little bit of "home" sent every once in a while.

The same goes for "I'm thinking of you" cards and/or letters. It can be lonely at times here and those letters, cards and/or packages are a special reminder that we're loved and an encouragement to keep on keeping on. Infact, I have an "encouragement" scrapbook where I keep all those cards and letters... and pull out to read through on those days I'm needing a bit of encouragement... or even in times of thanksfulness and joy...

To all those who have sent letters, cards and packages over the years.... my deepest and heartfelt THANK YOU! May the blessing return to you 100-fold. :)

Cultural Clues for Living in the Balkans

As I was hurrying to blow-dry my hair before heading down to the store just to buy some eggs (so as not to shock the locals by being outside with wet hair), I thought it would be fun to share some of the cultural clues for living here in the Balkans.

• Yellow lights can mean either "go faster" or "go" depending upon which color comes next (red or green respectively)
• Parking on sidewalks is normal
• Ladies, don't get in the front seat of a taxi or the driver may try his best pick-up line on you
• Keep your shoes clean at all times (keeping a brush by the door is handy)
• Leave your shoes at the door (hostesses will provide slippers if needed, or you can bring your own)
• Have house shoes (slippers) available for your house guests
• Air-conditioning can give you a head ache and is the cause of neck and back pain
• Drafts (aka cross-breezes) will make you sick
• Ladies, don't sit on concrete without a sweater or cardboard beneath you or your ovaries will dry up
• Going outside with wet hair will make you sick (even if it's 100+ degrees)
• Being outside with wet hair won't make you sick if you're on the beach and swimming
• If shopping for produce at the supermarket be sure to have them price it for you BEFORE going to the checkout
• Paper or plas..er..pennies?? Thanks to a new law, produce baggies and check-out bags are paper (and with no handles!)... if you want plastic in the produce section: SOL; plastic at checkout? 3 Denars please. This applies everywhere: corner stores and even fast food places. So I'd suggest bringing your own bag. Must say, though, this is very green. :)
• Please don't talk loudly while walking in public or yell across the street to your buddies
• Don't make eye contact and smile at everyone you walk past; however, if you know the person, be prepared to stop, shake hands and chat for a couple of minutes... a simple nod of recognition won't do
• When in the outdoor market it's not necessary to answer each vendor with "no thank you" when they offer a "povelete?" [ha ha... I did that one a lot when I first got here and even now after 6 years am tempted...]
• Bring flowers or chocolate or some other small gift when visiting someone for the first time (or after a long time). Just be sure the flowers are in uneven numbers. Even numbers are reserved solely for condolences and funerals.
• When visiting, be sure to shake hands and greet each person in the room starting with the oldest and/or most important person.
• When people come to visit, be sure to immediately offer them something to drink (juice, coffee, tea... water as last resort) and put out something salty (like nuts) and/or sweet (chocolate or cookies) on the table.
• Salty and sweet food items are usually kept separate.. not served on the same plate (no sweet potatoes with that turkey!) and in buffets are usually placed on opposite sides of the table or on a different table altogether.
• Spitting in public is against the law and could cost you €50.

Now that you have some cultural clues for the Balkans... Come visit me and we'll put them into practice! =)

Language Woes & Getting the Wrong Medication

As I type this my arm is still sore and sporting a nasty bruise from the IV that was stuck into it earlier this morning. Doctor visits are usually all in Macedonian and used to be a confidence booster for me and language learning... but thanks to a serious miscomunication I learned the hard way that I've got a ways to go.

My specialist in the US always told me that with my mix of allergies and asthma I should never take a drug that is related to Penicillin as it will always make my asthma much worse. I thought I'd communicated this to the doctor succinctly on Monday, including mentioning a popular brand of antibiotic that I musn't take. She assured me that what she was prescribing me would be OK.

Well, the next day, Tuesday, after taking the third dosage I just wasn't getting any better. Infact, my asthma was worse and headed towards acute. So I pulled out the package to do some reading.... only to find I'd been taking the exact thing I couldn't!! I was bewildered because I'd told her I couldn't take that... but then I realized that I must have said it wrong or something, or she thought I said I could instead of couldn't.

A quick call to the hospital and explaination to the receptionist resulted in her calling the doctor and then getting me hooked up with her cell phone number. After a lengthy conversation, and my asthma getting worse by the moment thanks to the anxiety I was feeling about taking the wrong med, we agreed that I should run down to the corner pharmacy (aka Apteka) and explain the situation, show them my prescription and then have them call the doctor. 20 minutes later, and a few tears of shear relief, I was sliping/sliding my way on the iced-over sidewalk in the figid night air and back home with the new antibiotic in hand.

This morning I went back to the hospital for a check-up with the doctor. After listening to my lungs she informed me that I needed an "infusia" and I thought maybe it would be breathing through a nebulizer for a while (an airiated-misty form of recieving medicine into the lungs). Nope. It was an IV and oooww was it painful! If I'm not better tomorrow I'll have to get another one. Please pray that I'm better and don't have to!!

Talking to the doctor both on Tuesday and again today it was clear that we'd just completely misunderstood each other. I'd thought I'd been clear and so had she, but in language learning you learn that that's not always true.

Lessons learned:

1. When going to the doctor always make sure there is a translator available to make sure that my "flawless" Macedonian is actually not flawed. And so that what the doctor is saying is completely clear with little to no gray.

2. Don't just blindly trust that the doctor prescribed the right thing, because like in my case they may have understood you to say "could" instead of "couldn't". Always read up on the medicine before taking it -- or at least reading the package to be sure that you're not taking something you know you shouldn't.

The Calf Yells "Le Le!" Kolede!

It's 6:45AM on Christmas Eve, January 6, 2009, and I am awakened by the first batch of children making their way through my neighborhood singing the Kolede Song. This year there is lots of icy snow on the ground and the children are bundled up like Ralfie's little brother.

Oops, there goes the doorbell. Hmm... it seems this group of children has added a drum to give the song a beat lively beat. lol. I must go answer the door and hand out this years treat: mandarins and chestnuts this year. =)

Here's a VERY rough translation of the song:

One icey Kolede

a tree limb fell on grandpa

grandpa was in agony.

Grandma incubates [sits on] 4 goose eggs.

Crazy happenings, Kolede!

Today is Kolede
tomorrow is Christmas

We're going to kill a calf
but the calf yells, "lele!"

I won't kill the calf
I'll give you veggies

and we'll make pita
for all of us to eat. Kolede!

It still gets me that the children are bundled up and out the door so early in the morning. My friend on the other side of town had them ringing her doorbell at 5AM this year. When my language teacher first told me about this I'd assumed that the children would come in the early evening like in the US for Halloween. So you an imagine my shock my first year here when my doorbell rang and children were singing this Grandma-got-run-over-by-a-reindeer-ish song at 6:30AM! It took me 7 years, but I was awake, dressed and ready for them this year! (See last years post for more on Christmas Eve in Macedonia.)

It's a Pepto-Pink Christmas Tree, Charlie Brown!

Oh how I miss going to the Christmas tree farms for the annual evergreen. The smell of pine wafting within the chilled December air as you get lost in a forest of trees. :::sigh:::

In the Balkans, Christmas tree shopping is a much different experience. Last year the "pepto" tree was all the rage (as were toxic green & pungent orange). This year it's black with red ornaments and red or periwinkle with white ornaments.


As always, if you're looking for a live tree, you can find some "Charlie Brown" ones, which cost about $30 and come complete with roots!

Personally, I opted for the basic green "Super Cdlorado" that assembles by numbers (and I WON'T mention how long it took me to assemble it!). =)

Comfort Food & Traditions

Living overseas, thousands of miles away from family and dear friends, can be hard--especially around the holidays (and nephews birthdays). Yet in our international community here we've found some traditions and comfort "foods" that help take the edge off of missing family and friends. One is the annual ladies "Caramel Apple Night."

The first one was held 10 years ago and has been a strong tradition since. The lady who started it is now back in the US, but each year she so graciously sends the caramels and prayers from ladies for the party. This is a fun evening of fellowship with anywhere from 20-50 women who are believers and live and work in a variety of roles here in Macedonia & Kosovo. Some of the ladies have been here for 9 years while others just "got off the boat" three days ago!

For many of us this is the only time we get to see each other and so is a lot a fun to catch up and to hear how each are doing in their various areas. We also share local finds (like Brita filters and a "Gourmet" restaurant) and cooking tricks (homemade vanilla extract and pie crust from filo-dough).

It's funny how things like the team Thanksgiving, the single-women's Christmas party, Carmel Apple night, the team Christmas party, ajvar-making retreats and Field Forum are all becoming regular traditions and events... ones that I find myself looking forward to each year. Back in the US we had/have traditions but they were just a part of every day life and I didn't think about their specialness very much (shocker!)... since being overseas, though, I've noticed the difference and am finding that I cherish the traditions we do have. There's a certain comfort in the familiar while in the midst of the all-together unfamiliar. Comfort "life-food" while living in a foreign land. :)

Thank you for your continued prayers and support. They mean so much and are deeply appreciated.

*******

Pictured clockwise: just a portion of the ladies shoes left by the door, apples cooling/setting in the cool winter air on the balcony (Trivia: which "apple" is not like the others?), spiced apple cider, the caramel dipping process. Mmmmm.