Earthquake

Yesterday as I sat on my bed, still sick yet trying to work on reimbursement reports, I was suddenly aware of feeling like I was on a boat. It was a strange sensation, swishy-sway, and I was a bit baffled at first as to what was going on. Then I noticed the lamp, curtains and fan also swaying. Of course the next thing I did was to message a couple of colleagues to find out if they also felt the earth move beneath their feet. They did, so that was nice know that it wasn't just me. =)

Turns out the earthquake yesterday was centered in the Gostovar region of Macedonia and was mostly felt around Skopje and Tetevo. Since it was a swishy-sway rather than a wriggle-jiggle, I assume that it wasn't a very big one, yet here in Skopje any earthquake can shake the memory of the locals as in 1963 the city was decimated by a large one. In fact, the building behind the Christmas tree in the city center was the only building to really survive in the center. The remains of the old train station pictured up top stands as a memorial to the victims, the clock forever testifying of the moment the quake hit. It's been 45 years and the city has rebuilt, yet I imagine yesterdays tremor gave many pause.


As for me, you'd think being from California that I'd have lots of experience with earthquakes, but I must confess yesterdays and its aftershock last night was only the 3rd one I'd ever felt. The first was when I was at college that jiggled me awake one night. The second was about 5 years ago here in Skopje and hit just as I was about to plug in my hairdryer. The sound was like 10 semi's barreling through my apartment. I scurried to the doorway and as I braced myself I was very aware of each and every cinder block rumbling all around me... and all the while praying the foundation was firm and wouldn't fall under the test. Yesterday's quake was not so dramatic, but it was still impressive... and an experience I'd be happy to forgo in the future.

Some excerpts from today's papers...

Today's newspapers in Skopje were again full with news and commentary on the US election. Here's a peek from three local papers:


"Obama Writes History"
Morning News (Утрински Бесник), p. 1, 6 November 2008:
...then from p. 2:
Obama Abolishes Racial Barriers in America

"With the choice for Barak Hussein Obama, the US completes the most radical political precedent in their history."

"'Will President Barak Obama be a modern Franklin Roosevelt who will lead America out of the economic crisis or will he be a dismayed copy of Herbert Hoover', asks a British 'Independent' yesterday in light of the new boss of the world's superpower."

"This decision demolishes the racial barriers in the US and shows that the world is rapidly moving towards change, even though sometimes there's no time to carry into history... Barak Obama definitely is a part in this history. He is the new John Kennedy for the Americans [and] the new Martin Luther King for African-Americans... "

*******

"Obama Accomplishes the American Dream"
The Times (Време), front page, 6 November 2008
...then in the article on p. 2:
"Barak Obama Realizes the Dream of Martin Luther King"


"Obama's win is a huge message to all multi-ethnic countries that values need to be expressed that don't belong to a particular community."

"Will he continue the advocacy of Bush for Macedonia"
"The Balkans remain on the American agenda"

*******
Here's a couple of links to Balkan Insight for articles completely in English: "Macedonia Hails Obama Amid 'Name' Woes" and "Balkan Leaders Praise Obama Victory"

*******
Anyways, that's just a clip but you get the idea. The local news as well as the international news is saturated with commentary on this historic election. Additionally, all day yesterday I was peppered with questions by locals: "So who did you vote for?" "Who did you want to win?" "Are you happy with the result?" And chatted with local friends from other European countries who joyfully exclaimed, "I was really quite ecstatic that he won actually." It truly is amazing this sense of excitement that those here and around the globe have.

The News (Вест) summed it up by saying, "The World Gains New Hope."



"I urge, then, first of all, that requests, prayers, intercession and thanksgiving be made for everyone- for kings and all those in authority, that we may live peaceful and quiet lives in all godliness and holiness." 1 Tim 2:1-3 NIV

Election Day - "So who did you vote for?"

When the "Terminator" won the "Total Recall" election in my home state of California, I was in Croatia. There and back home in Macedonia the news of the "Governator" was met with bemusement. In 2004 the world was watching but the contest between Bush and Kerry was couched in appropriate measure amidst the rest of the daily news. 2008, however, has been a much different experience. The interest is keen and dominates the news both locally and internationally. Everyone has a strong opinion on this election and most are quick to share it--especially as today, November 4th, 2008, loomed on the horizon.

In this past year I cannot tell you how many conversations I've had with locals and internationals about this election. They happened in cabs, corner stores, old town streets, hair salon, church, cafes, homes, etc... Politics is a favorite subject of most Balkan people--especially American politics. My colleagues have had similar experiences as well. These were not conversations we ever sought out, yet inevitably when someone finds out or knows that you're an American they take the opportunity to express their opinion and then are anxious to extract from you your thoughts about who is going to win and who you are going to vote for.

My hairstylist, for instance, knew I was a Californian and so considered it his mission to "convert" me to the "right" party, Republican, and to support McCain. Conversely there were others who were determined to persuade me from my wayward Republican ways and to be a faithful young Democrat and to vote for Obama. When I went to the post office to airmail my official absentee ballot, the workers handled it with such care, with a sense of great import, and then they too began to pepper me with questions as to who I voted for.

Tonight as I locked up the office and headed home I could not help but reflect upon all this and the keen interest this election holds worldwide. Some countries, like Bulgaria, even held mock elections today while people in other countries are having all night parties to watch the election returns. It's a bit strange to see such great international interest in the US Presidential election and then a bit humbling to realize that I actually had the privilege to cast a ballot. The world seems so small at this moment and no matter who wins there is a sense that we are all living in a vastly historic moment, a world moment, and the excitement of all is palpable.

As I write this I confess that I've got CNN International humming in the background, and no, I'm not going to divulge who I voted for. My answer to you is the same as it was to all those previous askers: it's between me, God and my ballot and I ask you to please respect that. I will, however, say this: Let us be in prayer for our President-elect, no matter who he may be, to be a strong, wise, grace-filled and discerning leader. Likewise, as this election does hold such worldwide interest, let us remember that in broadened prayer as well.

Symphony of Peace

This statue has always fascinated me. Why was such an seemingly terrible piece of art in the middle of town? It just seems so violent, the birds crushing one another against the world. The image always reminded me of seeing birds fighting in mid-flight or of the little bird that would follow and torment a crow while flying. It wasn't until this past January 1st, while strolling around town in the new-fallen snow, that I actually stopped to read the plaque.


"Симфонија на Мирот" when translated means "Symphony of Peace." Knowing the given name of this piece of art simply confused me more. It just seemed so incongruous with the image of doves pile-driving each other against the planet.

Yesterday after I picked up the mission vehicle from the repair service I again passed this statue and again pondered it's seemingly mixed message. Then it hit me. Doves are widely viewed as symbols of peace. There are three of them, and as this is an Orthodox community, most likely represent the Holy Trinity (Father, Son and Holy Spirit). The fact that they seem to be crushing each other against a globe is more likely meant to be a pressing of peace into the world, perhaps as if to infuse mankind with eternal peace from God Himself. And further it then makes sense to me that this artistic "prayer for peace" be situated in the center of a city, where East meets West, in the middle of the Balkans where there has been millenia of conflict.

People long for peace to transform their lives and their communities. True and ultimate peace comes from the Prince of Peace who can renew and fill hearts and transform lives eternally. Would you join me in praying for such peace?

The Illinden Uprising

Most of the time the first clue I have that a big holiday or commemoration is coming up are the flags posted on the light poles all around town. For this weekend, though, I didn't need the flags to tell me that the anniversary of the 1903 Illinden Uprising was on Saturday, August 3rd. This is because it's one of the major political holidays here in Macedonia.

The uprising began in an area known as Illinden near Bitola and was solidified with rebels taking the town of Krushevo and the raising of a red flag. There in that town the people issued what's known as the "Krushevo Manifesto" declaring that "we have today raised our heads and decided to defend ourselves with rifles in our hands from our and your enemies, and obtain freedom." (quote from Macedonia FAQ.) They seized control from the Turks for 10 days, before being summarily crushed and the city burned. This event, while it ended in defeat at the time, is commemorated today as a significant step in ultimately breaking free from the 500-year hold of the Ottoman Empire.

Five years ago I was here during the 100 year anniversary of Illinden, but being "fresh off the boat" so-to-speak, I didn't really realize the significance of this particular event. Now that I've been here for just about six years it makes a lot of sense that one of the major streets through the city is named after this event... this event is a milestone for the people here with regards to freedom and autonomy.

As most people time their personal vacation time around the extra days off afforded by this holiday, the city was pretty quiet this weekend. Even the coffee-bars that tend to play loud pounding techno-music into the wee hours of the morning seemed insead to be playing the tune of the cricket's hind-legs. The loudest noise of the holiday weekend came from the fireworks on Saturday, Illinden, which I enjoyed from my cozy balcony. The biggest festivities on this weekend were actually at the lake-side venue of Ohrid for August's "Hot Summer Nights" with the likes of Lenny Kravitz performing... As for me I enjoyed the quiet weekend at home catching up on the sleep I'd missed out on this past week due to late nights at the office. :)

If you build it in a corn field... it won't float

Last week my friend and I drove from Berat to the seaside city of Vlore in Albania. It was a beautiful drive and at times the sites quite entertaining. One thing in particular that had us laughing for kilometers was a boat-house.

Now at this point you may be thinking, "OK, what's so unusual about that?" Well, you're not alone. Each person I told this story to had the same question... that is until I showed the picture.

You see, what makes this... er... boat special was that is was made of concrete, in the shape of a small cruise-ship (or gunner?) and about 100 miles from the sea in the middle of a cornfield!?! [Pictured below is the other side of the road that shows we're in a large valley (also notice the bunker in the middle... bunkers were everywhere, but that's another blog. :)]

Have you ever seen such a sight? It totally reminded me of the movie "Field of Dreams" and the famous quote, "If you build it he will come." There was what looked like a small restaurant next door to the, uh, boat-house so perhaps it will be a hotel someday? If you build it... overnighters will come? Tee hee.

This was such the funny sighting that I had to share. :) Thank you for continuing to walk with me here in the Balkans. Thank you too for your faithful prayer and giving to the GCF that enables me and others to serve here.

Day 14: $40.21 and counting

The Galichnik Wedding--Travelogue

The Galichnik wedding is a major cultural event that happens every year in the days around St. Peter's day (July 13th... aka yesterday) in a small mountain village for which the wedding is named. Several years ago I travelled with some friends to see the opening dances of the celebration. It was quite an experience.

To get there we drove through some amazing landscape behind Mt. Mavrovo including a high dry desert-like place that reminded me of California. There at one point we saw hundreds of fluffy off-white sheep descending the hills with the voice of the shepherds guiding them. It was an amazingly gorgeous gentle and flowy site. Even though they were sheep, it gave me an visual picture of perhaps what Solomon meant when he said, "Your hair is like a flock of goats decending from Gilead."

After coming up out of the high valley the road took us through twists and turns of heavy forest until finally we arrived in the small village of Galichnik, nestled there in the mountains. It was a very quaint village with one main street through town and the homes tucked away on dizzying slopes.

Like the old dirt road that once led to the village, life is hard and twisty for the locals there. In the winter times they can get snowed in for weeks and months. There's not much to attract tourism throughout the year either and I read recently that as a sad result the one and only hotel has had to close. The one day a year the village seems to rely on for it's survival is the Galichnik Wedding and the hundreds (thousands?) of people who come to see it.

The people of this village try to earn a living for their families back home as migrant workers for most of the year. Some work as far away as Germany. Though each year they all try to make it back to their families by the middle of July, on St. Peter's Day. This is a greatly anticipated time as the village looks to the road to see once again the faces of their loved ones, and, for the young women, the young men they whom they will marry. This is how the Galichnik wedding was born over a century ago.

Back in the 70's the dirt road was paved and this long-standing tradition was made into an official cultural event in an effort to draw in tourism as well as to preserve the heritage of songs, ceremony and dance of the region. Dances like the "teshkoto" (Тешкото) "a symbol of the difficulties and invincible clever people much suffered but always successfully passing over the various troubles in the period covered with a web-net" (quote from MyMacedonia). All the participants in the wedding ceremony and events are dressed in the traditional national dress of the area.

My friends and I were there for the first day of this 3-day event. As we'd arrived early we sat at a local cafe and enjoyed good conversation and coffee while breathing in the fresh pine-scented mountain air. Ahhhh. While sitting there a couple people came up who knew one of my friends. They are from Galichnik and like many others had returned home for Petrov Den. We joined them for a nice walk along a mountain trail with some breath-taking views.

At one point we came across a rock that had an indentation in it. They said it was "God's footprint" on this place of earth. There was more to the story, but sadly I've forgotton it. I did take a picture of it as you can see. :)

Late into the summer day you begin to hear the rhythmic percussion of the drums echoing through the mountains. Young men had been practicing their dances earlier in the day, but with these drums you knew the main procession was coming and that the ceremonies will soon begin. Spectators gather in the stone ampitheater above the main village fountain and at the base of the church while dozens of men and women in national dress of reds, golds and beige take their mark.



At this point the bride and groom tie a flower boquet to the top of a Macedonian flag, which is then displayed prominately on the grooms house. Bang! Bang! Bang! The grooms father (?) fires the shotgun into the air and the dance of the mother-in-law begins where she leads while holding flower-decorated bread on her head and a pitcher jug in her hands. Next follows the teshkoto dance mentioned above. Teshkoto means "the difficult one" and we could see why... among the dances amazing moves is a balancing act on the drum. After this there are more dances and then the bride is taken to the three fountains. We missed this last part, though, because it was well beyond dusk and we needed to get back to town. My hope it to make it back to see this whole three-day event perhaps next year.

Below is a video from my first visit there in 2003. It begins with the sound of drums echoing in the mountains and then moves on to show some of the dances.

Here's some sites with more info on this cultural event:
http://www.culture.in.mk/story.asp?id=4029
http://www.tripology.com/travel/vacation-macedonia-destination-wedding-traditional-galichnik-wedding-in-macedonia-421/
http://www.mymacedonia.net/links/galichnik.htm

Day 9: $29.11 and counting.

Street Signs With Significant Names

In contrast to the US where street signs are prominently displayed on street corners and the numbers spray-painted on the gutter, the street signs here are not so easy to find.

They are a navy blue with white lettering and typically posted on the sides of buildings, gates or fences. The numbers are small squares in the same coloring. The trouble is that they're not so easy to see from the street. However, now that I'm walking to and from work each day I'm actually finding them!

Something that has fascinated me about the different signs are the names that they bear. Here's some examples of the types of people, events and places the streets are named for:

"Hristo Smirnenski" - a famous Bulgarian poet from the early 1900s

"Ivo Lola Ribar" and "Partizanska" for a Croatian man and a group Yugoslav communists that fought against the Axis powers of WWII

Revolutionary leaders like Vladimir Lenin ("Ленинова") and Gotse Delchev (led revolt against Ottoman Empire)

US Presidents Franklin Rosevelt ("Fr. Ruzvelt") and John Kennedy. I've even heard rumors about naming a street after President George W Bush as a "thank you" to the US for recognizing Macedonia's constitutional name.

Notable days in history like the Ilinden Uprising of August 2, 1903 where revolutionaries siezed control of Krushevo from the Ottoman Empire. It was summarily crushed 10 days later but in 1944 on that same date the state of Macedonia was born and became part of the Yugoslav Federation.

October 11, 1941("Oktomvri") which began Macedonia's fight for freedom from Bulgarian occupation

May 9th for WWII's Victory Day when the Germans surrendered to Russia

Religious holidays like July 13th ("13 Јули") known as Petrov Den or St. Peter's Day.

"Havanska," "Vashanska," "Oslo" and "Londonska" are in a neighborhood where all the streets are named after cities of countries that helped Skopje to rebuild after the devestating 1963 earthquake that leveled about 70% of the city.

From the different names of streets throughout the city one gets a pretty good idea of what things, events or people are held of high cultural import to the locals. As I pondered over this while walking to work this morning the song "Where the Streets Have No Name" by U2 kept coming to mind. Bono apparently wrote it in response to the fact that in Belfast one could know what religion a person was simply by knowing the name of the street on which they lived and longed for a place where the streets had no name.

For some reason that song, the idea of a place where the streets have no name, makes me think of heaven as such a place. I like the idea that the great street of gold would have no name because the Name above all names will be there. Yet the gates will have the names of the 12 tribes of Israel and the apostles' names will be inscribed on the walls' foundations (Rev 21:12-14). So I wonder if the streets may have names after all? Ones that, like those here in Skopje, testify of the City's import, it's values, it's culture. Names like "Faith," "Hope," and "Love." Or maybe they would be descriptors of the One like "King of Kings," and "The God Who Sees." Who knows... One thing I do know is that I look forward to walking those particular streets every day for eternity. How about you?

Thank you for taking this journey with me.

Day 8: $26.96 and counting.

Discovering bits of local history

This morning I decided to take a completely different way to work and discovered a couple of things.

First, in taking the path through the greenbelt I found the walk immensely more fun and much cooler than my usual route via the city streets.

Second, my path brought me to a small section of old cobblestone and the remainder of train tracks... blended into the modern asphalt. At first I thought it really strange to find these tracks leading to, well, nowhere, but then I remembered the Old Train station that was severly damaged in the 1963 earthquake that about leveled the city. These tracks must have connected to that station at one time.

Finally, I came across a WWII monument. I'd passed by this white structure daily for years, but it wasn't until I took a different walking-route to work that I actually was able to stop to take a look.

"Here fell the national hero of Yugoslavia: Kuzman Josifovski-Pitu on 25 Feb 1944 from blocade of the Bulgarian Facist Police."

He was only 29 years old. If you click on his pic it will take you to a website with his bio.

So interesting to me, these fragments of history blended into the modern cityscape... and you don't see them while driving or being in a taxi rushing by on the busy city street. You have to slow down to a walk.

Who knows what other gems I'll find this month as I explore new and different ways to walk my 2 miles to and from work.

Thanks for walking along with me and for your giving to the GCF.

GCF Walk Day 2: $6.45 and counting

Friday the 13th: All Souls Day

This RSS feed arrived in my box today from Makfax:

"The Macedonian Ministry of Labor and Social Welfare announced that Friday 13, All-Souls' Day a day before Pentecost, has been declared as non-working day for the Orthodox believers in Macedonia."

Is it just me or is it quite ironic that "All Souls Day," which commemorates the faithful who have died, falls on the ultimate superstitious day of Friday the 13th?

The actual holiday is on Saturday, but it's typical for people to get either the Friday or the Monday closest to a holiday off from work.
Interestingly, the holiday (1 of 7 All Souls Days) is always on Saturday. In the Orthodox church, according to Wikepedia, it's considered the typical day for prayers for the dead because Jesus rested in the tomb on Saturday. To pray for the dead, Orthodox faithful will light a candle and place it in the lower section of the candelabra at church. It's believed that as long as the candle remains lit the prayer continues to rise before God.

Pictured is an example of the ornate candelabras. The fresco behind it is of the Archangel Michael and is in the only section of the church that you're allowed to take photos. [In the interior of the church there is a famous fresco of the "pieta" where Mary shows emotion... a herald of the Renaissance that was to come. Here's a link to a Macedonia FAQ site that has a photo of it... simply scroll to the bottom of the page to see it.]

For many, this "All Souls Day" and the days that follow will likely be full of sorrow as they grieve again for loved ones who have died, especially for those who've lost someone in the last year. Gravesites are visited to pay respects on Pentecost as well. Therefore, as the locals commemorate this day on Saturday with prayers for those who have died, would you please join me and pray for those who are living with hearts sorrowed by grief? Thank you.

Macedonian Folk Dancing

The drum boldly beats out the base rhythm, horns join in with tone and fill, then voices sing out a strong and joyful yet dissonant melody... enter the dancers, dressed in embroidered red, white, black, brown, purple and gold: Macedonian folk dancers treating us with a special performance before the Lord of the Dance last Saturday.

I'd only ever seen this dancing in full folk costume once before (at the Galichnik Wedding) and so was thrilled to get to see it last weekend. If you look at the pictures you'll notice that the outfits are different. This is because each region of Macedonia has their own unique style/pattern of dress. I assume that some of the dances are region unique as well, though I may be wrong. These outfits were the common daily dress of locals not too long ago (well, ok, closing in on 100 years now maybe) though even today in some villages and remoter places you'll see the ocassional baba (grandma) wearing her outfit headed home from the market. Ah. Culture.

One of the coolest thing about these dances is that some are still danced today: at the Christmas bonefires, weddings or any special occasion really. Old or young, it does not matter, everyone knows how to do these dances. I can understand why---> because they're so much fun! (It's easy to dance your feet off.) If only we had such dancing in the US... there's no emphasis on couples and everyone can participate. The closest thing we have is country line dancing... and that's not the same (still fun, though).

It was a joy to see this special dance performance, especially as those performing looked like they were having such a great time! :) Here's a video clip sample of the dancing from that night.