The Illinden Uprising

Most of the time the first clue I have that a big holiday or commemoration is coming up are the flags posted on the light poles all around town. For this weekend, though, I didn't need the flags to tell me that the anniversary of the 1903 Illinden Uprising was on Saturday, August 3rd. This is because it's one of the major political holidays here in Macedonia.

The uprising began in an area known as Illinden near Bitola and was solidified with rebels taking the town of Krushevo and the raising of a red flag. There in that town the people issued what's known as the "Krushevo Manifesto" declaring that "we have today raised our heads and decided to defend ourselves with rifles in our hands from our and your enemies, and obtain freedom." (quote from Macedonia FAQ.) They seized control from the Turks for 10 days, before being summarily crushed and the city burned. This event, while it ended in defeat at the time, is commemorated today as a significant step in ultimately breaking free from the 500-year hold of the Ottoman Empire.

Five years ago I was here during the 100 year anniversary of Illinden, but being "fresh off the boat" so-to-speak, I didn't really realize the significance of this particular event. Now that I've been here for just about six years it makes a lot of sense that one of the major streets through the city is named after this event... this event is a milestone for the people here with regards to freedom and autonomy.

As most people time their personal vacation time around the extra days off afforded by this holiday, the city was pretty quiet this weekend. Even the coffee-bars that tend to play loud pounding techno-music into the wee hours of the morning seemed insead to be playing the tune of the cricket's hind-legs. The loudest noise of the holiday weekend came from the fireworks on Saturday, Illinden, which I enjoyed from my cozy balcony. The biggest festivities on this weekend were actually at the lake-side venue of Ohrid for August's "Hot Summer Nights" with the likes of Lenny Kravitz performing... As for me I enjoyed the quiet weekend at home catching up on the sleep I'd missed out on this past week due to late nights at the office. :)