Fire, Warm Whiskey and Dancing in Skopje

The heat was intense as the flames engulfed the wood pile sending pillars of orange and blue high into the cold winter sky. This was the Kolede bonfire in Skopje, one of many neighborhood fires that are a yearly tradition two days before Christmas.

Christmas, you say?? Yes, Christmas comes on January 7th here in Macedonia, one of three countries that celebrate according to the old Julian calendar. It's actually one of the really cool things about living here: celebrating Christmas twice! It's a time of year deep with culture and tradition, and this blog is one of a series to share just some of these events with you.

Kolede, I have learned from locals and through research, has its roots in the old Slavic folk religion and has transformed over the generations. Locals have told me quite plainly, "It's a pagan tradition." Basically, logs of oak (aka yule logs) were sacrified on the fire and people would dance in order to appease the gods of winter and to usher in the spring. I've read some accounts that the fire was to actually ward off the evil spirits that roamed around during this time.

Standing by the fire a couple of years ago, one lady shared that during Communist rule the bonfires became more about getting together socially with family and neighbors to dance, drink, eat and chat about their lives. My language teacher shared with me that the Orthodox church has endeavored to change the meaning of the fire and instead says that it "represents Christ's Light coming into a dark world." Whatever the reasons, the Kolede bonfire is a big cultural event, and one not to be missed if your a visitor. It's also a great opportunity to get to know your neighbors in a social setting.

Christine and I attended the bonfire in our neighborhood last night. About 150 people gathered, shivering, in the winter chill that included occasional droplets of snow, many of them carrying branches of oak. Some put them in the fire pyre while others simply held on to them and would bring them home and place in their house. The oak branches are to symbolize health and good luck for the coming year.

The Masters of Ceremonies were two men known as the Kum's (pronounced "Koom" aka "best man") and they stood on either side of the priest who opened the festivities with prayer. Afterwards he blessed a special loaf a bread into which was baked a coin. Whoever gets the piece with the coin in it will be the "Kum" for the following year. With that the meal line was opened, the rakija poured and the fire started. The food was amazing and included several local specialties like baked fish (it was amazing), pita, sarma (stuffed cabbage) and tafcha grafcha (baked beans). The key ingredient is that nothing was from animals (people are fasting during this time). Traditional Macedonian folk music was played and people danced and enjoyed the festivities.

One funny thing happened. There was this group of guys (30's-ish) who kept sending one guy over to ask Christine and I various questions (I'm thinking it was probably a little obvious we were foreingers.... and here I thought I was blending... lol). Anyways, the first time it was, "Where are you from?" After answering "America" he went back to his friends to report this (to the amusement of Christine and I.)

Well, later on he came back and asked if he could get us something to drink? "Rakija?" "No, thank you," I replied, "I had a Fanta [soda] earlier." "Seriously???" he remarked, perhaps somewhat confused by the fact I was speaking Macedonian and refusing a man's attempt to get me whiskey. He again went back to his friends.

Well, the third time he came over he basically just grabbed my hand to get me out to dance the "Oro" aka traditional line dancing. I was a little bit flustered and shot a desperate glance to the older couple next to me, pleading with my eyes, "Help me get out of this!" Well, the lady caught it and said, "Ajde! Dojde! Ke igrame!" (Come on! Let's dance!)... and she grabbed my other hand and before I knew it was dancing around the fire with a line of people! I have to admit that it was fun (and thankfully didn't turn out to be the "pick-up" that I was afraid it would be--aided by the older gentleman who joined the dance between myself and the other guy). Many thanks to Christine for documenting this moment for me. lol.

Speaking of dancing, it was so cool to watch the Macedonians dance the traditional dances that they have been doing for generations. The teenagers there were totally into it as well! They were quite good and fascninating to watch I must say. The really fun thing about these dances are that anyone can do them, young and old alike, and it's not a couples thing. It's just dancing. (I admit that it's a little hard to explain this right to my American friends, but maybe the pictures will help.)

After a while you could definitely see a visible change in the merry-making as the gallons of consumed warm whiskey and beer began showing their affects. Thus, Christine and I made our retreat, having had a very enjoyable time, and many pictures and memories to document it.